I am using buried 4-inch PVC pipe to run coax and control cables from shack to tower base. The PVC come out of the ground, turn horizontal, and end a foot or two above the tower base. The cables will
Paul: From your description I'm not sure exactly how your PVC is configured at each end. Assuming your PVC emerges from the ground vertically, you ought to include a PVC U-turn (two 90-degree elbows)
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 13:28:43 -0400
Second photo from the top. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/cablebox.htm The conduit enters the box from the right side in the photo. The cables exit the box down through the one foot long vert
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 13:58:19 -0400
I agree the conduit opening should be pointed *down*. I use "sweep" 90s, or "sweep" 45s but I do have cable pulling boxes at each end. One important thing with conduit; make certain all permanent jo
Paul, if you don't have too many cables, you can use a cap and drill the cable holes in a line side by side. Then, saw the cap thru the center line of the holes into 2 halves. Slip the 2 halves aroun
I did basically the same thing but used 4" ABS. The DWV sweep fittings are inexpensive and available at the local home center. I used a combination of a 90 and a 45 on each end, and as Gene says, don
Author: "Richard M. Gillingham" <rmoodyg@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:58:20 -0400
I like it. How do you keep the kritters out? 73 Gil, W1RG -- Original Message -- From: "JC Smith" <jc-smith@comcast.net> To: <ersmar@comcast.net>; <Paul@PaulFerguson.us>; <TOWERTALK@contesting.com> C
Interesting stuff from the group! I am planning my own installation and this has been very helpful. I agree that making the "elbow" permanently affixed is a good idea. Question I have is, did any of
Meant to say that NOT having elbow permanently affixed is a good idea...Sorry! Edward Sylvester <navydude1962@yahoo.com> wrote: Interesting stuff from the group! I am planning my own installation and
When I first installed it I made some wire "plugs" out of that stiff metal screen like you find on soffit and crawlspace vents, but since the other end terminates outside the crawlspace I decided if
I originally used a fish tape to pull the first cables through. When I pulled them I included a nylon cord for future pulling. Every time you pull a new cable, just include another cord. 73 - JC, K0H
Ed: My first suggestion to you: Use 4 inch conduit if possible. I used three inch because that was the max width hole my DitchWitch (tm) would cut for me. I should have at least tried to sink 4 inch
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 00:16:47 -0400
Unless running large coax and lots of them you will probably find the 3" to be sufficient. I used 3" with 5 runs of LMR400, 4 of RG-6, large rotator control cable, and the control cable to the remot
Ed et al: <Big snips throughout below>. 73 de Gene Smar AD3F I guess the size of the conduit depends on how many right-angle pulls you go through, in addition to the number of cables. Most folks in t
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 12:41:04 -0400
<snip> Agreed. Here the conduit is about 80 feet long. There is so little resistance you could push the coax through even with 4 cables already in there. The only problem is some of the joints did no