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Total 40 documents matching your query.

1. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: n7us@arrl.net (Jim McDonald); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:08:13 -0700; I'm trying to sink 8' ground rods using a heavy, blue, post hole setter from Home Depot. Worked great on one, but I'm now putting them around a tower base and there's caliche, a very hard layer, down; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00328.html (8,092 bytes)
2. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: K7LXC@aol.com (K7LXC@aol.com); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 17:21:15 EST; If it was my installation I'd run them diagonally so that you can get the whole rod it even at an angle. It'll still make a good contact with earth - the hemisphere is just a little smaller. Cheers,; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00329.html (9,041 bytes)
3. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: w7ti@jps.net (Bill Turner, W7TI); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 14:37:19 -0800; ____________________________________________________________________ There's a tool called a hammer drill that would probably do it. It rotates the bit and hammers it at the same time. Just use your; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00330.html (8,335 bytes)
4. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: ValErwin@aol.com (ValErwin@aol.com); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 17:39:44 EST; Towertalkians: With regard to the sinking of ground rods: I have found that here in the N. Texas area where we also have a caliche layer, along with a sandstone layer, that even a post hole setter wo; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00331.html (8,533 bytes)
5. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: dleath@cyberport.com (D. Leath); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 23:59:46 -0000; Have electricity close by? Good, you won't need a generator. Rent an electric jackhammer from your local equipment rental store. Half day should be enough. Strategically place an 8' stepladder close; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00336.html (9,558 bytes)
6. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: w2up@mindspring.com (Barry Kutner); Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 00:51:49 -0000; Dpends on your earth. We have a shale layer about 5 ft down. I tried the electric jackhammer (80 lb) with a ground rod driver , and still couldn't get through the shale. So, I just put in a few extra; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00337.html (10,825 bytes)
7. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: jimsmith@bigvalley.net (Jim Smith); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 17:19:58 -0800; Hi Jim, I've driven many rods in my former career as an electrician, and as an electrical contractor. I have a big Bosch demolition hammer with a ground rod attachment. Unfortunately, the ground has; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00338.html (10,047 bytes)
8. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: depagnier@uswest.net (Dave); Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 18:55:15 -0700; Jim, I rented a rock drill after I hit bed rock at 3' while slide hammering my rods. The drill went through the underlying sandstone like butter. The rock drill is what miners use to make way for exp; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00340.html (10,118 bytes)
9. FW: [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: paulfinch@msn.com (Paul Finch); Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 08:29:44 -0600; Hello, An electrician friend showed me a way to start ground rods and get them down to a level where you can get to them safely with a hammer or other device, at least if you have sand or clay soil.; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00359.html (9,497 bytes)
10. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: billwall@bellsouth.net (bill wall); Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 15:45:22 -0500; Hi all; We used a large electric impact hammer. Our soil is clay and granite. My next door neighbor is the second largest quarry in Ga. I drove in 6 18' copper glad/steel ground rods in about 2-1/2 h; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00371.html (11,037 bytes)
11. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: EAvila@caiso.com (Avila, Edward); Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:50:19 -0800; There was an short article in QST years ago that described solution....dig as wide and deep a hole as you can, then pour a small amount of water into hole, let it soak in then start driving the groun; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00407.html (9,750 bytes)
12. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: aa4lr@arrl.net (Bill Coleman); Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 10:16:37 -0500; This has been brought up over and over on TowerTalk. While using water methods (either the puddle technique described above, or the attach-a-hose-to-copper-pipe and push it in method) may be an easy; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00438.html (9,905 bytes)
13. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: ae4mr@arrl.org (Dave Armbrust); Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 15:41:04 -0500; The method I suggest is to take about 2-3' of that 1 1/2 water pipe, buy a cast iron end cap for it and slam it up and down on the ground rod until the top is within a couple of feet of the ground. U; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00450.html (11,708 bytes)
14. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: kn9t@webtv.net (Mike KN9T); Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:15:25 -0600 (CST); Wondering where the soil is displaced when using water assisted ground rod drillig? Try scooping out a muddy basement after a flood and try to find a spot it hasn't flowed into. 73 KN9T -- FAQ on WWW; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00452.html (8,032 bytes)
15. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: EAvila@caiso.com (Avila, Edward); Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 16:18:35 -0800; Most of it squirts out the top....or "integrates" itself in the surrounding soil.......all I can say is it works very well.......for me!! 73..k6sdw --Original Message-- From: kn9t@webtv.net [mailto:k; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00453.html (8,347 bytes)
16. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: W9UI@SprintMail.com (Bob & Traudel Eslaire); Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:18:24 -0500; I use the water "boring" method with a difference. I use a 1/2" galvanized pipe as the borer and a 5/8" (or 3/4", if that is a better fit) copper pipe as the ground rod. The oversized copper pipe mak; /archives//html/Towertalk/2001-01/msg00459.html (10,721 bytes)
17. [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: "Allen R. Brier" <britech@earthlink.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:32:10 -0500; What is the best/easiest method to sink ground rods? I know the trick of using water to fill the hole several times to make it easy, but I have also heard that the ground contact is not as good using; /archives//html/Towertalk/2006-08/msg00374.html (6,788 bytes)
18. Re: [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: "KA9OFM John Garrett" <ka9ofm@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:58:01 -0500; Truthfully, I don't see that it would make any difference. I have never heard that it did, and if you think about it the ground is going to get saturated and dried out many times around your ground r; /archives//html/Towertalk/2006-08/msg00376.html (8,542 bytes)
19. Re: [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 03:04:29 -0400; Some companies say not to use the hydraulic drill and if you check right after installing the rods they will have some play or could usually be pulled. However if you come back in a week or two (in m; /archives//html/Towertalk/2006-08/msg00378.html (8,876 bytes)
20. Re: [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods (score: 1): Author: Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:09:12 -0700; Rent, or borrow, a rotary percussion hammer with the ground rod driving attachment. The latter is a little thing that looks kind of like a standard socket for a 1/2" drive socket, except it's smooth; /archives//html/Towertalk/2006-08/msg00383.html (7,985 bytes)

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