I am about to pour concrete for the base of my HDX589 tower. I am going to go with a Ufer ground as well as the Polyphaser recommended eight 75' radials with multiple ground rods (8' rods every 16').
I would put some #2AWG tinned solid in the foundation and not rely on the rebar. I have used a clamp type unit to clamp the copper strap to the ground rod. If it's lightning your concerned with, I wo
Mat, Sounds like a very good ground system. I have a question on one thing. As part of your grounding system you mention connecting to the rebar. I assume this is the rebar cage that will be cast in
The reported cases of spalling and cracking are with degraded or bad rebar/bolt installation, usually with some corrosion to allow water to penetrate the gap _________________________________________
Again?? Seriously? That myth has been debunked so many times, both here and elsewhere, that I can't believe people are still perpetuating it. I've issued this challenge several times before and nobod
Dave, Wow, did I hit a nerve ? Didn't mean to stir up deep rooted feelings on this subject. Lets take one thing at a time. Our local building code does not specify connecting the tower to the rebar c
A while back I watched a training film from either NWS or NOAH that showed a lightning strike that had not just cracked, but blown part of a system apart BUT and and emphasize the but, stranded wire
I have a friend ready to put up a new tower and we're planning the grounding system. How about placing a big ground plate at the bottom of the hole for the tower foundation before pouring the concret
Doesn't buy you much. Th concrete has a very low resistance, compared to the surrounding soil(partly because concrete is hydrophilic, partly because of ionic content) and large contact area. ________
UFER Ground is better! 73 Jim W7RY _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk@contesting.com http://lists.contest
I have to go along with others that have already weighed in. It's just not worth the effort or expense, particularly when you realize that big block of concrete is a very good ground and if large eno
Agreed Roger! They work well in any type of soil or rock. The theory is to dissipate the strike energy to as much earth as possible. Radials, with properly spaced ground rods are a good way to go! 73
The problem is that strap can decay and degrade over time directly in some types of earth AND As you have pointed out, connection to strap is problematic at best unless it is also welded (brazed usin
Oh! And I see Hargar makes a rebar clamp! http://www.harger.com/products/idx.cfm?subc4id=256&p=1&oiid=824&thid=690&footid=0&footinfoid=0 73 Jim W7RY _______________________________________________ __
They'd probably work well in concrete, but I've never seen one of these hold up for more than two years "at most" in our soil. Typically you can really reef on them so they are plenty tight and in a
Pretty difficult to move it once entombed in concrete.... 73 Jim W7RY _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk@
I don't agree about not connecting to the rebar. That's the standard way to do a Ufer ground and I believe that's the way it's described in the NEC. My local jurisdiction required a visual inspection
Yah, I'd be surprised if one loosened like that, and more surprised if some one was finding it. <:-)) I think they call that destructive testing. 73 Roger (K8RI) _____________________________________
I agree. The only thing other than the size of the foundation that my inspector checked was that the tower had been properly bonded to the rebar cage ... he was absolutely insistent about it. I bonde
a. Neither of those codes apply to a non-electrically energized structure, that's why. I have, however, glanced through the Napa County (where you live) regulations online, and while I didn't find an