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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*\[TowerTalk\]\s+plumbing\s+a\s+tower\s*$/: 36 ]

Total 36 documents matching your query.

1. [TowerTalk] plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: w9ol@billnjudy.com (FireBrick)
Date: Wed Mar 5 11:12:52 2003
a plumb bob, using 'piano' wire will support a VERY substantial weight and hang fairly still. This is how we installed elevator rails. But: The last few times I did towers, I went to my friendly RENT
/archives//html/Towertalk/2003-03/msg00069.html (7,201 bytes)

2. [TowerTalk] plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: w9ol@billnjudy.com (FireBrick)
Date: Wed Mar 5 13:13:26 2003
I used a transit for years. I switched to the laser because you don't have to be looking through the glass while adjusting. Line the laser up and you can turn the base adjusting nuts and watch the re
/archives//html/Towertalk/2003-03/msg00072.html (9,402 bytes)

3. [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "Dale Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 10:19:43 -0600
I played around on the other day doing some mainteance. I made up a little jig out of string to suspend between the three legs of my Rohn 25G. I looped and loosely tied one string to one leg. I tied
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00787.html (8,345 bytes)

4. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "k6xyz" <k6xyz@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 10:44:58 -0600
Get a metal square with a bubble in it and back off from the tower several hundred feet. Place the vertical part of the square on the vertical c/l of the tower and then look at the bubble. This won't
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00791.html (9,427 bytes)

5. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: David Gilbert <xdavid@cis-broadband.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 09:54:32 -0700
Hi, Dale. I don't have a tower up yet (planning one for this coming spring), but I would definitely vote for the laser. My wife and I have been building our own 4500 sq ft home for the last four year
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00793.html (10,042 bytes)

6. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "Keith Dutson" <kdutson@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 11:09:04 -0600
I climbed up to the first guy bracket and dropped a plumb bob through the center down to the base. Cannot remember how I determined the center at the guy bracket but it was not difficult. The three g
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00794.html (9,581 bytes)

7. [TowerTalk] PLUMBING A TOWER (score: 1)
Author: "FireBrick" <w9ol@billnjudy.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 12:45:17 -0600
If you need to install plumbing for a 'convienence facility' while climbing you tower.... It's way TOO HIGH! Sorry, devil made me say that. I used to use the 'piano wire' and concrete block method. I
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00802.html (7,867 bytes)

8. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: <john@kk9a.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 18:22:17 -0500
Last week I changed the guy wires and grips on my P40A tower. The old ones were pretty corroded after being up for four years. I have not found a non-corrosive method of guying yet. I used a transit
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00812.html (8,931 bytes)

9. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 21:31:44 -0800
You can actually buy a laser with a level to do just this at the local home improvement store. The trick would be getting it truly level. A little bullseye level probably isn't good enough, but a reg
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-11/msg00824.html (8,867 bytes)

10. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: K7LXC@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 16:02:52 EST
little jig out of string to suspend between the three legs of my Rohn 25G. I looped and loosely tied one string to one leg. I tied the other end of the string to the horizontal brace directly across
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-12/msg00062.html (8,927 bytes)

11. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 22:02:50 -0500
You mean it's supposed to be straight AND true? I've always taken the "That looks arbout right" approach. OK, maybe not as the sole means of determining it's straight and true, but I don't go much be
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-12/msg00066.html (9,240 bytes)

12. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "Dick Green WC1M" <wc1m@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 01:12:24 -0500
That's what I did, more or less. I checked and corrected plumb after installing each set of guys, including the temporary guys (pier pin installation.) I wanted to make sure the tower wasn't vastly o
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-12/msg00067.html (8,879 bytes)

13. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "Dale Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 01:05:23 -0600
________________________________ From: K7LXC@aol.com [mailto:K7LXC@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 3:03 PM To: towertalk@contesting.com; kg5u@hal-pc.org Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-12/msg00068.html (11,669 bytes)

14. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: "Marlon K. Schafer (509) 982-2181" <ooe@odessaoffice.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:11:11 -0800
Do NOT buy a cheap one. I have a black and decker. Decent unit, or so I thought. Can't see the lines in sunlight. What REALLY sucks though is that it's not really level! Over 30' it's about 4" lower
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-12/msg00355.html (12,901 bytes)

15. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a Tower (score: 1)
Author: Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:55:50 -0800
I would have said that you should get a new one under warranty, but, interestingly, B&D has no performance spec for their levels. Shame on them... A typical carpenter's level has a sensitivity of abo
/archives//html/Towertalk/2006-12/msg00358.html (9,290 bytes)

16. [TowerTalk] Plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: "Its from Onion" <aredandgold@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 21:59:33 -0600
When I need to 'plumb' a tower, I use my transit. Set it up about 150 feet from base and shoot any point of the tower. They can be rented rather cheaply if you cant borrow one. Just my 2 cents. Lee K
/archives//html/Towertalk/2008-01/msg00458.html (6,628 bytes)

17. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: David Gilbert <xdavid@cis-broadband.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 23:16:53 -0700
That should work fine for a guyed tower where you have the ability to adjust everything once it's fully up in the air, but as I mentioned I was installing a free-standing tower where the base gets em
/archives//html/Towertalk/2008-01/msg00460.html (7,751 bytes)

18. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: Pete Smith <n4zr@contesting.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 07:32:12 -0500
When I put up my 97-foot Rohn 25 tower on a pier pin base (my first and only experience of this kind), the experienced tower builders who were helping me said absolutely nothing about plumbing the to
/archives//html/Towertalk/2008-01/msg00463.html (8,169 bytes)

19. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: Bill Turner <dezrat@copper.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 07:15:49 -0800
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: -- REPLY FOLLOWS -- When I put up my 80-foot self supporting tower, I bolted the first section to the stubs and built a framework to suspend that in mid-air over the hole. I plumbed
/archives//html/Towertalk/2008-01/msg00466.html (8,070 bytes)

20. Re: [TowerTalk] Plumbing a tower (score: 1)
Author: Gene Smar <ersmar@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 09:27:51 -0600 (CST)
David et al: Self-supporting tower bases without leveling nuts have to be installed with the bottom tower section installed so you can plumb that first section. You can't just bury the base legs in c
/archives//html/Towertalk/2008-01/msg00467.html (9,729 bytes)


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