I have a 95' Rohn 25 tower, guyed at 3 levels. While mowing today I discovered a 1" slit, 1/16th wide, in one of the legs of the bottom section, about 28" above the 4'deep concrete base. Can this be
No. Any ideas on what might have It's common for inexperienced installers to not install the base properly. They forget to put gravel or stone in the bottom of the hole and up on the legs for a few
This happened to me too - though in my case it was in 3 sections stored on their sides at ground level... If it was me, I'd bite the bullet and take the whole thing down and then 1) replace the broke
I had this happen to one of my towers (80' guyed at two levels) more than 20 years ago. I put a small weld at the two ends of the slit just to make it stop increasing in length, never had a problem t
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 02:31:30 -0400
In aircraft we "stop drill" by drilling a small hole at each end of the crack, but welding is not an option there. However we do the same with plexaglass windows. When drilling plexiglass though you
Hi Roger! Thanks for the info on stop drilling, sounds rather clever. With 3 guy levels I doubt there is much torsional force on the base, most of it is absorbed by the guy-wires before it reaches to
each end of the the same with have to polish the the hole are clever. the base, most bottom plate. I doubt the crack will propagate anyway since it is caused by water freezing and not other stress.
If I remember correctly the crack was 28" from the bottom of the tower. That is not a drain in the correct position, it should be at the very bottom of the tower to do any good. I would drill holes i
bottom of the tower, else water freezing might make more cracks lower than the present one. In fact I almost wonder why this is not a recommended procedure anyway. In dismantling N4SU's aluminum towe
mowing today I discovered a 1" slit, 1/16th wide, in one of the legs of the bottom section, about 28" above the 4'deep concrete base. Can this be salvaged? Sure. After stopping the split by drilling
My concern with weep holes at the level of the concrete is that you have just traded one problem for another. With no weep hole the water can rise above the top of the concrete and when it freezes i
I almost hate to reply, because there will be so much said about this that I am sure some will think me totally wrong, but, let the flames begin. Weld up the split, checking the remaining legs carefu
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 13:12:19 -0400
The ROHN catalog is very specific about not drilling galvanized tower legs. They don't even want the bolt holes drilled out. If the bolt doesn't fit they direct the builder to use "taper pin punches"
Is it just me, or does the idea of drilling holes in your tower legs send shivers down the spine of others? 73 W9OY ____________________________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - m
fit. Was this a new tower? I have never had a problem with new bolts going in on a new Rohn tower. 73, Keith NM5G The ROHN catalog is very specific about not drilling galvanized tower legs. They don
I am with you on that thought. It seemed quite easy to simply follow the manufacturer's recommendation to place gravel in the bottom of the hole to allow water to drain out of the legs. 73, Keith NM5
Author: "K8RI on Tower talk" <k8ri-tower@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 20:22:58 -0400
Yup. Brand new ROHN 45-G. That double hot dipped galvanizing fills holes, and leaves lots of little sharp things to poke holes in tender body parts. They tell you right in the manual about enlarging
Mine is a Tri-Ex self supporting motorized structure. The legs are hollow tubing (self draining) except when they fill up with dead insects, dust and other crud. The factory provides weep holes at th