Kelly: This is what I use. I.C.E. "AC Power Mains Impulse" http://www.iceradioproducts.com/impulse2.html#1 73 Jim N9WW James E. Chaggaris President PowerOne Corp. 1020 Cedar Ave. Suite 110 St. Charle
Actually, not entirely true... If you have a decent whole house system, then the point of use supression should be chosen very carefully.. for instance, you want the threshold voltage to be HIGHER th
I'll take that a step further. The safest approach is a whole house unit at the service entrance taking care of what comes in on the feed to the building, including provisions for telephone lines, CA
I have an APC Smart-UPS 700 that I bought from RefurbUPS.com. I can't tell in the information I have which type of UPS it is. Does anyone know? Thanks. Jim N7US --Original Message-- For my really exp
It's a consumer grade switching UPS with a 500W capacity. It'll hold half load (250W) for about 14 minutes and full load for about 4.5. It's designed for PC's and has either a serial or USB connectio
Thanks very much for the note, Kevin. I haven't noticed my unit's being susceptible to RF (using 1500W output to various antennas). APC claims the output is a sine wave, but I don't have a scope, so
One needs to consider what problem you're trying to address.. Is it non-stop operation? UPS is the answer Is it line voltage regulation? voltage regulator or static inverter UPS... (note that most eq
I've been doing a bit of browsing Most of the whole house protectors are shunt mode (which, by the way, can actually cause some problems, making things worse) Intermatic IG1240RC Leviton 51120-1 Pana
I have been reading this with great interest. I am installing a ground system now. I was going to use an I.C.E 330 for the AC mains (whole house). Would that be adequate? Something is better than not
I had the ICE suppressor on my mains. I had a lightning strike earlier this summer and the internal parts of the ICE box were fried. The electrician who inspected the house and did some repairs said
It appears I need to do more shopping for the AC protection. Don't happen to know the GE model number do you? Thanks John wa5zup bject: [TowerTalk] whole house surge protectors> > I've been doing a b
I set up the following Cutler-Hammer protectors when I built a new house about 3-years ago. Everything enters the house at the same spot, so all the little protectors are in close proximity to each o
You're the second one to ask. It's a GE model # THSASURGE60. It also has an LED on it so you know it's still working. If the LED goes out, something inside needs to be replaced. Barry u xt rt o lm --
When I built our house 12 years ago I had the the following installed by our power company: http://www.edcosurge.com/products/telecom/emc240B.asp No problems and LED's still green even with numerous
And it's even worse in situations like mine, where the whole house protector is attached to the main shutoff next to the meter, but the circuit breaker panel is 30 feet away in an interior room. I us
I have a ~100' piece of burried 1/2" hardline going from my metal bulkhead out to the base of the tower. It's not connected to anything on the tower, nor anything inside the shack. I keep a beer can
Blake, unfortunately it looks like you'll have to drink another beer just for the replacement can. Perhaps you can find a volunteer. Lightning sure does interesting things. I certainly agree with N2I
Jim and fellow tower talk members: I'm in the process of having a 220 line run into the shack for a new Alpha 9500 amp my XYL and I picked up at the plant in Boulder a month ago. Still waiting on the
Your electrician assumes that a whole house unit protects against all hazards. It does NOT. If properly done, it protects against a strike (or other transient) coming in on the POWER SERVICE. That's
Not to be argumentative, but it would seem that the peer-reviewed transient protection literature doesn't agree with the single unit protection philosophy. (i.e. things that aren't sales material or