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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*\[Towertalk\]\s+Balun\s+Location\s+\(more\)\s*$/: 21 ]

Total 21 documents matching your query.

1. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: ccc@space.mit.edu (Chuck Counselman)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 12:22:28 -0400
To which I replied: "The boom will be a big fat shorted turn, so to some extent it will spoil the choke, but winding coax around the boom on a form should still work if the diameter of the form is mu
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00356.html (8,546 bytes)

2. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: KI7WX@aol.com (KI7WX@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 14:48:05 -0400
With the coax choke approach what are folks doing to terminate the coax into pigtails for connection to the feedpoint? In my station I've always avoided coax terminations and junctions which don't en
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00359.html (7,741 bytes)

3. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: stevek@jmr.com (Steve Katz)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 12:56:34 -0700
[Steve Katz] It's not difficult to properly waterproof pigtails, using RTV silicone sealant or any number of products. And of course, always leave a "drip loop" at any outdoor termination! -WB2WIK/6
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00360.html (8,869 bytes)

4. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: k4oj@tampabay.rr.com (k4oj)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 16:14:47 -0400
I think you may be kidding yourself... a Y-ending for the shield vs. the center conductor CAN be waterproofed with the usual tapes and goops, and the resultant termination... This termination also wi
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00361.html (10,319 bytes)

5. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: stevek@jmr.com (Steve Katz)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 14:15:57 -0700
I agree with K4OJ. I've had _many_ (really many -- probably several dozen) beams up with pigtail lead connections waterproofed using goops of various sorts, and have never experienced failures due to
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00363.html (13,166 bytes)

6. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: K7LXC@aol.com (K7LXC@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 18:40:28 EDT
into I agree. Jim and Steve aside, I haven't seen ANY split coax weatherproofing that was worth anything and my experience has been that it's almost impossible to keep water from running down the shi
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00371.html (8,839 bytes)

7. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: KI7WX@aol.com (KI7WX@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 18:57:04 -0400
Thanks. The trick is to get someone that actually knows the part number and manufacturer for whatever "some sort of dark-colored silicone sealant" is to reply with that information. I should have be
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00372.html (9,425 bytes)

8. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: kc2tn@comcast.net (KC2TN)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 19:12:20 -0400
Was kinda half watching this thread about baluns and just realized there was some mention of weatherproofing terminations. I just had this problem and resorted to a product by Star Brite called Liqui
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00374.html (10,561 bytes)

9. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: stevek@jmr.com (Steve Katz)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 16:10:44 -0700
Re the little SO239 center insulator thingies... I've had those fail, too. I've actually had several of them fail (various brands, over many years) for varying reasons. But the main reason I avoid th
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00375.html (11,596 bytes)

10. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: stevek@jmr.com (Steve Katz)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 16:23:08 -0700
Mark, I'll get you a manufacturer's part number. I don't know of any 3M product for this, but have been using G-C "Red Glypt" or something like that (have it at home, will look and get back to you) f
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00376.html (10,771 bytes)

11. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: rlake@webryders.net (The Lakes)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 20:11:58 -0400
Liquid elect.tape is avail. in many colors and is avail at your local Napa Auto Parts store or on line at www.napaonline.com I have used it on my TH-6's and makes a perfect seal and has lasted the la
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00377.html (12,592 bytes)

12. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: VE6JY Don Moman" <ve6jy@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca (VE6JY Don Moman)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 00:31:30 +0100
I just finished building 2 yagis using the coax balun and waterproofing the "Y" was an issue. Solved it indirectly - if it can't get wet, it won't. An approx 12" square rain hat of a suitable plastic
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00378.html (10,077 bytes)

13. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: ww5l@gte.net (Tom Anderson)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 19:56:32 -0500
Joe: It comes in colors besides Black. I saw it in red and blue at one store and actually had to hunt for it in black. I've sealed several outside connections with it that have lasted for years with
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00379.html (12,311 bytes)

14. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: K7LXC@aol.com (K7LXC@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:25:36 EDT
is There are several problems with using good old RTV (room temperature galvanizing); i.e. it outgasses an acid that can cause electrical problems. Dow makes an RTV for aquariums that is much more pr
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00380.html (8,602 bytes)

15. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: rmoodyg@bellsouth.net (Richard M. Gillingham)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:40:14 -0400
I just took down an antenna that I sealed the pigtail with an RTV sealant I got from a BellSouth repairman. It's clear, and does not have the vinegar smell. The antenna in question was up for about 6
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00381.html (12,532 bytes)

16. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: vr2bg@harts.org.hk (VR2BrettGraham)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 01:36:52 +0000
KI7WX asked: The problem with water wicking up the braid, as mentioned by K7LXC, can be avoided by tinning the braid for a short distance either side of where whatever weatherproofing that is to be a
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00386.html (8,458 bytes)

17. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: k4oj@tampabay.rr.com (k4oj)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 23:31:53 -0400
...perhaps I am assuming too much again - For me, the feed point attachment is on the underside of a yagi driven element and has the pigtails drooping away from the element towards the ground... this
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00387.html (13,511 bytes)

18. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: w7why@harborside.com (Tom Osborne)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 04:42:46 +0100
I still have found that the best stuff I've ever used is plain old Vaseline. I've had antennas up for a couple of years and when I checked the connections, they were as shiny as the day I put them up
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00389.html (8,676 bytes)

19. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: spelunk.sueno@prodigy.net (EUGENE SMAR)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 00:18:08 -0400
Mark: When I installed the coax balun on my tribander last year, I followed the recommendation by Jack WB4MDC in the ARRL Antenna Compendium (Vol 6, pages 156-157 for those of you following along at
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00391.html (10,364 bytes)

20. [Towertalk] Balun Location (more) (score: 1)
Author: K7LXC@aol.com (K7LXC@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 00:38:24 EDT
I've used it but it'll dry and flake off in strong UV areas regardless of the claims. If you're in Seattle, sun damage isn't a problem - hi. YMMV. I use it over tape for another protective layer. DON
/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00392.html (8,378 bytes)


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