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1. [TowerTalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: aa6dx@pacbell.net (AA6DX); Date: Mon Aug 4 13:16:43 2003; Here's a brand new big hammer drill for $69 -- I have one .. 73, Mark AA6DX http://tinyurl.com/iz0x -- Original Message -- From: "Jim Harris" <jimsportal@netscape.net> To: <nq4i@contesting.com>; <tow; /archives//html/Towertalk/2003-08/msg00069.html (8,885 bytes)
2. [TowerTalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: jimsportal@netscape.net (Jim Harris); Date: Mon Aug 4 12:16:36 2003; You can rent one with the right size bit for less than $5.00 an hour from a well supplied tool rental place. Jim, AB0UK; /archives//html/Towertalk/2003-08/msg00071.html (7,703 bytes)
3. [TowerTalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: richard@karlquist.com (Rick Karlquist); Date: Mon Aug 4 14:30:01 2003; AKA Harbor Freight, it's been posted on this reflector a number of times. This hammer is SDS, not SDS-Max. AFAIK, ground rod driver bits are only available in SDS-Max and Spline. Do you know where to; /archives//html/Towertalk/2003-08/msg00073.html (7,549 bytes)
4. [TowerTalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: nq4i@contesting.com (Rick Dougherty NQ4I); Date: Mon Aug 4 10:26:02 2003; Hi all...I found at a pawn shop a rather large hammer drill....I have a connection that I place over the ground rod and it takes approx 2-4 minutes in almost any soil....and it was only $60.....de Ri; /archives//html/Towertalk/2003-08/msg00081.html (6,863 bytes)
5. [TowerTalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: aa6dx@pacbell.net (AA6DX); Date: Mon Aug 4 18:56:15 2003; Yep .. I was a "postee" ... There are new folks aboard, apparently ...And, if you will recall, my solution was to have an SDS bit become the "donee" ... lopped off with my 4?" air cutoff tool - Then,; /archives//html/Towertalk/2003-08/msg00084.html (10,053 bytes)
6. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: n1nk@cox.net (n1nk); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:58:12 -0400; I started driving the first of planned 6 8' ground rods in this afternoon. ouch. also stopped by the local hardware store to see if they had or could point me to a sliding type drive device. they wer; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00660.html (8,155 bytes)
7. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: SavageBR@aol.com (SavageBR@aol.com); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:10:17 EDT; Use 10 foot lengths of copper pipe in place of rod. Clamp a garden hose to one end and hammer the other end partially closed to cause a water jet and simply jet the pipe into the ground. It is easy a; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00662.html (8,305 bytes)
8. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: k4bet@bellsouth.net (Paul McInnish - K4BET); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:55:53 -0400; Most farm & hardware stores carry a slide driver for driving the metal fence posts... should work good for ground rods. Northern Tool DOES have one... go to this link... http://www.northerntool.com W; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00667.html (9,315 bytes)
9. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: k4bet@bellsouth.net (Paul McInnish - K4BET); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:13:40 -0400; Most farm & hardware stores carry a slide driver for driving the metal fence posts... should work good for ground rods. Northern Tool DOES have one... go to this link... http://www.northerntool.com W; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00671.html (9,476 bytes)
10. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: n0tt1@juno.com (n0tt1@juno.com); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 02:24:28 +0100; I like to use a "post pounder"...a heavy steel tube with a metal "slug" in one end. It is normally used for driving in steel Tee posts for fencing. When the rod has been beat in with that, down to wi; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00672.html (9,352 bytes)
11. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: Jim White" <k4oj@tampabay.rr.com (Jim White); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:45:54 -0400; Takwe it easier on your back OM.... Rent a construction demolition hammer (like a Bosch) and get the attachment which slides over the end that will surround the ground rod - looks kind of like a deep; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00673.html (10,298 bytes)
12. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: Bill Otten" <res0958z@verizon.net (Bill Otten); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:02:33 -0400; .....with the only drawback being that it's not NEC code, which can and probably would be a factor if an insurance claim has to be filed. Bill KC9CS than; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00674.html (8,683 bytes)
13. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: tbeltran@earthlink.net (Thomas Beltran); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:23:42 -0700; I dug a small hole, maybe 8" deep, and then let the hose drip for a week. A 6 foot ground rod went all the way in with only hand pressure. I was surprised, didn't expect it to be that easy. This was; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00675.html (8,331 bytes)
14. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: ww5l@gte.net (Tom Anderson); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:34:57 -0500; JIM: Try most any store that sells fencing supplies, especially a farm supply store. Years ago I found a fence post driver that is a 3-4 inch piece of pipe with handles on the side and one end welded; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00676.html (10,161 bytes)
15. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: mike@mallardcove.com (Mike Fatchett); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:41:27 -0600; Home Depot sells fence post drivers. I think they were about 20 bucks. I never thought about using one to drive in ground rods but that is a great idea! Mike W0MU --Original Message-- From: towertalk; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00678.html (10,924 bytes)
16. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: ve7hcb@rac.ca (Chris BONDE); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:30:07 -0700; I did something similar, only for part of a day, lost the ground rod, it went way down there after a a good blow. Chris opr VE7HCB; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00680.html (8,988 bytes)
17. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: ve7hcb@rac.ca (Chris BONDE); Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:30:22 -0700; Using the pipe instead of a rod not in the NEC code? In this area for electrical ground from the electric service is a flat plate, no rod. The rod is no longer acceptable. Chris opr VE7HCB; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00681.html (9,157 bytes)
18. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: n4zr@contesting.com (Pete Smith); Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 06:31:53 -0400; I think it's the "sliding" part that is fooling you. The classic fence post driver is a steel tube about 2 feet long with handles near the top end and a plate plug welded inside that end. It's quite; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00682.html (9,202 bytes)
19. [Towertalk] Driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: kg4chx@telocity.com (kg4chx@telocity.com); Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:40:39 -0700 (PDT); Try using a rotary hammer drill with drill action turned off, Drives them right in here in NC red clay. Tim KG4CHX; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg00697.html (7,978 bytes)
20. [Towertalk] driving ground rods (score: 1): Author: aa4lr@arrl.net (Bill Coleman); Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 00:03:23 -0400; I built one. My ground rod driver consists of 1 foot of galvanized steel pipe nipple, with couplers at both ends, with one end sealed with an end plug. On this I've slipped 15 lbs of weights and coll; /archives//html/Towertalk/2002-04/msg01074.html (8,390 bytes)

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