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[Amps] 3-500 / 4-400 cooling.

To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: [Amps] 3-500 / 4-400 cooling.
From: John E.Cleeve <g3jvc@jcleeve.idps.co.uk>
Reply-to: g3jvc@jcleeve.idps.co.uk
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 13:06:10 +0100
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Good afternoon gentlemen,
I would like to re-open the discussion on the effective cooling of the 
pins on valves like the 3-500 and 4-400 series. Looking back through 
my old Eimac handbook, and ARRL handbooks, the required volume of air, 
applied to the 3-500 valve, for example, is quoted as 13cfm, with a 
back pressure of 0.082 inches. This seems quite precise, and from a 
number of 250 hour continuous operation, 4-400 "pulls" I received in 
the past, from BC transmitters, which probably had the specified 
bases,chimneys and the correct, or greater flow of air through the 
base and around the envelope of the valve, none showed any signs of 
the overheating filament pin problem.
The charred pin/wire problem with a pair of 3-500 valves, I raised a 
few days ago, was the result of my first experience looking into a 
commercial amplifier, which uses 3-500 valves, and is built for the 
amateur market. It would seem that the manufacturer relied on one 
single fan, fitted in the back panel of the cabinet, to cool 
everything inside. I was also suprised to see that inspite of all the 
details, with regard to the operating conditions for power valves, 
published over the years, by Eimac and the ARRL, present day 
manufacturers of amplifiers for the amateur market appear to rely on a 
mixture of convection and pressurised cabinet cooling for this type of 
power valve, rather than the direct forced air cooling, specified by 
the valve manufacturers. 
The consequence of this, is that in the amplifier example I saw, the 
original pair of 3-500 valves had been discarded, diagnosed as "low 
emission" although never run at more than 500 watts, when in fact, the 
problem was most likely to have been overheating and the melting, then 
carbonising of the valve filament pin/wire joint, causing a high 
resistance connection, and thus reducing the actual voltage across the 
valve filament, inside the envelope. The first set of valves probably 
still had many hours, maybe years, of useful life left in them, and 
could have been rescued by cleaning and resoldering the pin/wire 
joint, but ended their days prematurely in a crusher. Fortunately for 
the amplifier owner, whom I was visiting, I was asked to look into his 
box, prior to the present set of valves ending up the same way!!

I suppose my question to the group, is, that if you discover, the 
expensive valve replacement way ! that your amplifier, does not have 
the specified air flow, sockets and chimneys, to suit the valves 
fitted by the amplifier manufacturer, has any group member, 
effectively resolved the problem, without resorting to a "rebuild" 
and, are there any "retro fit" components that can be used, or 
adapted, to correct the cooling situation. My present thoughts are 
around a separate blower box and a flexible hose to the amplifier 
cabinet, but the "sticking point" is how do you effectively distribute 
the air equally around the tube pins, without the special sockets 
being fitted.
 
Although, having bought a commercial product,it is not unreasonable to 
assume that all the appropriate assembled component parameters have 
been considered and taken into account in the design process, then, 
the final product, on sale to the public, in English law, should be 
of "merchantable quality, and fit for the purpose intended". If this 
amplifier were mine, I think I might well seek legal advice. I assume 
that in the EU and USA there is a similar course for redress.
 
As for my own amplifier, it is home brew, to a design from the ARRL 
handbook of many years ago, uses a pair of Eimac 3-500s, in Eimac 
sockets / chimneys, and the air flow is 20cfm, and the valve filament 
pins show no signs of heat stress. The valves are at least 30 years 
old, for I bought them, with their fittings, new. They run at about 
400 watts, and at that power, they should last for ever, but, I do 
have a set of Eimac spares, just "in case".

Oh, for the word "valve", read "tube", no excuse other than I am 
English, and somewhat over the age hill!! your advice and comments 
would be much appreciated. sincerely John. G3JVC.

   
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