That's an intriguing idea Hal. I can try it and see if it has any effect
but it will be at least Sunday before it gets done (getting ready for
the Dalton, GA hamfest now). Though there might be something on the
outside causing a difference, it appears that it's all inside. I thought
that ceramic from different batches could cause the difference in color.
I'll have to find one of my friends with a video camera to try that
experiment. I don't have anything here that will do. It's a good idea
though and might shed some light (no pun intended) on the heat issue
with the ceramic.
Not that any of this will change the way the tubes work... they work
fine... what a value for a legal limit amp with headroom... but it's
just enough weird science to keep tugging at the brain. I appreciate
all the input from everyone.
73, Tony W4ZT
HAROLD B MANDEL wrote:
> Dear Tony,
>
> What do you think the results would be if you removed the tubes
> and very thoroughly cleaned them with hot water and soap first
> and a finish with isopropanol, all handled with new clean
> rubber gloves?
>
> While the ceramic doping theory is popular I would
> wonder about contamination, but why is one device green and the other
> blue? Different ceramic compositions might be the answer.
>
> Next, use an ordinary video camera and watch a color monitor
> hooked to the video output. The reason I suggest this is that
> an IR controller shows up as a very visible blue/white light
> after processing through a CCD. I just wonder if there are
> wavelengths of light you are NOT seeing, either with the
> naked eye or your DSLR.
>
> Hal
> W4HBM
> On Fri, 24 Feb 2006 00:58:32 -0500 Tony King - W4ZT <amps080605@w4zt.com>
> writes:
>> both tubes in it. During the testing after the tube swap I noticed
>> that
>> by looking straight down through the anode cooler I could see a
>> distinct
>> glow. Interestingly enough, one tube was glowing BLUE and the other
>> tube
>> was glowing GREEN!
>>
>>> <http://tester.gs35b.com>
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