All this talk of radials makes me wonder about my radial field....
The area that the radials live in has been burned in a backfire. It has a
wide variety of wire in it, mostly stranded copper. I'm sure the
insulation is no more now that it's been burned.
I'm quite sure they're corroded now, most likely on each strand of each
wire.
The million dollar question, now - are the radials ruined? Would I realize
better coverage if I were to replace them?
Inquiring minds want to know....
73
Matt
AK4MK
On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Matt Murphy <matt@nq6n.com> wrote:
> Is there any danger of damaging stranded copper wire by overheating it with
> a torch when soldering or brazing?
>
> 73,
> Matt NQ6N
>
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 2:41 PM, Drew Vonada-Smith <
> drew@whisperingwoods.org
> > wrote:
>
> > Radials are a lot of work to put in, and the expense of wire is
> > significant. I can't see any justification for not joining them the best
> > way available. IMHO, silver brazing.
> >
> >
> > I use and recommend Sta-Silv 15 (15% Ag, 80%Cu, 5% P brazing stick) and a
> > simple MAPP gas torch. Propane is not quite hot enough to work well.
> > Liquidus is 1475F. Flux didn't seem necessary, but you could use white
> > brazing flux. Sure, I spent $25 in solder over about 5 verticals, but of
> > what significance is that compared to the rest of the effort, to insure a
> > lasting joint?
> >
> >
> > Sta-Silv 5 is probably fine also, with a 1500F liquidus, But I prefer
> the
> > characteristics of the 15%. Very easy to work with.
> >
> >
> > 73,
> > Drew K3PA
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 08:52:40 -0700
> > From: "Richard (Rick) Karlquist" <richard@karlquist.com>
> > To: "Topband@contesting.com" <Topband@contesting.com>
> > Subject: Topband: Soldering radials?
> > Message-ID: <c04783d1-8f96-c17c-5921-fb6648e8587e@karlquist.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> >
> > I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group
> > on soldering radials. What I currently thinking
> > is as follows:
> >
> > SOLDER SELECTION:
> >
> > 1. Tin lead doesn't hold up in the weather.
> >
> > 2. "Stay Brite" 3% silver solder (97% tin,
> > no lead) is known to work well, but is expensive,
> > and has a considerably higher melting point
> > than 63/37.
> >
> > 3. Lead free plumber's solder obviously works
> > in water pipes, but does it hold up outdoors
> > in the rain? What is the melting point?
> >
> > FLUX SELECTION:
> >
> > 1. Pure rosin. Hardest to work with, but minimum
> > corrosion issues.
> >
> > 2. Activated rosin. Easier to work with. What
> > corrosion issues are there?
> >
> > 3. Acid core plumber's flux. Very easy to work
> > with, very corrosive. Does this hold up in the
> > rain, etc?
> >
> > (I remember the dire warnings that Heathkit manuals
> > had about not using acid core solder, but I
> > guess that doesn't apply to radials.)
> >
> > CRIMPING?
> >
> > Has anyone tried crimping as an alternative to solder?
> >
> > Rick
> > N6RK
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Topband@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/topband
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Topband Digest, Vol 166, Issue 8
> > ***************************************
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> >
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