Hi Kenneth,
My comments below.
Dwayne KG4ADM
<< I can Second (or third) this! The use of crimp PL259 is wonderful!
I use RF Industries crimp-on connectors for practically everything...except
PL259's on RG58 coax, they don't make a conn for it. I use PL259, SO239,
NM,
NF, BNC, TNC, Mini UHF on Times LMR400 and LMR240 cable...either standard
or
Ultraflex. For PL259's on LMR400 cable the center pin is crimpable but I
usually solder it.
The PL259 RFI conn I use is RFU-507-SI. You can find info at <
www.tessco.com >
I don't have the model number of the crimp tool handy.
When I HAVE to solder a 259, I only use Amphenol silver.
Just my opinion.
73 Dwayne KG4ADM
>>
Not needing any help with installing PL-259 connectors I've never looked
into
crimping tools and have no knowledge of them. I'd like to know what is
being
crimped? Perhaps the center conductor can be crimped OK but how does one
crimp to the shield in a Pl-259? Any pressure on the shield will not be
supported by the dielectric under it.
KG4ADM- The best way I can describe it is to Go to < www.rfindustries.com >
, search under connectors for part number RFU-507-SI and look at a picture of
the connector. By the connectors design, the shield will be supported
between the connectors inner part and the crimp sleeve. The center conductor
can be crimped but I usually solder it if convenient.
In Type N connectors there is a rubber O-Ring seal that is pressed against
the outer covering as I remember for a water seal only. This pressure
results in a denting of the center dielectric and eventual water leakage.
Other wise the Type N is a fair connector impedance wise at VHF and higher
IF
the center pin pressure forward into the female part so the shoulder makes
continuos contact instead of just the smaller pin inside a very small
squeeze
contacts. To prevent eventual water leakage from the rear I have added RTV
Rubber Seal in the back if the connector and a length of shrink on tubing
over the rear part on to the cable or taped it if I didn't have the shrink
on
tubing.
One other thing about a serious deficiency of a Type N connector--in
particular outside in cold weather. I had a Type N on coax with a solid
center conductor. On a cold day about 35 degrees my antenna was dead. The
solid center conductor "Contracted or Shrunk" so that it pulled the center
pin entirely from the female part in the connector on the antenna. It was
originally flush with the end of the connector when originally installed. I
set the shoulder back a bit inside the connector so the center pin was back
flush again. I didn't check it again next summer to see where it was.
Solid
center conductor wires can slip inside the coax due to differences in
expansion where the twisted stranded wire apparently cannot. I'll have to
check that out in cold and hot weather with a test just for that with solid
conductor center wires in coax (which have less loss).
The Type N line of connectors relies on 3 or 4 small pressure fingers on the
very small male center pins which have far less contact area than the body
of
the pin and reduce its power carrying ability. This is why I say it's
necessary for the pin shoulder to make firm and clean contact. Maintaining
this firm contact is almost impossible. This is why PL 259's have a center
pin contact advantage as it can't move. I make sure the center pin has no
solder flow on the outside of it, otherwise clean and I even coat it
Silicone
grease. It remains RF clean. I clean the inside of the SO-239 female
socket
also regularly with a small diameter abrasive stick. My connectors never
heat.
Now back to the PL-259. DeWayne what is and why do you use "Amphenol
silver"
which I assume is a solder. Regular solder works just great in soldering
the
center pin and is a fairly low temperature solder. What is the melting
temperature of Amphenol silver?
KG4ADM- I should have been more specific here. It's not a solder. It's
just the garden variety, but better quality, silver plated Amphenol PL259.
I recently recommended drilling the 4 holes in the PL-259 body with the next
larger size drill and beveling the holes for easy soldering as it also
exposes clean brass. A ZL supported this practice with his post--smart guy.
Try it--it works k7gco
>>
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