Search String: Display: Description: Sort:

Results:

References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*\[TowerTalk\]\s+Drill\s+bits\s*$/: 31 ]

Total 31 documents matching your query.

1. [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Guy Molinari <guy_molinari@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 04:11:35 +0000
Hi all, I don't know why this is so hard. I'm trying to drill out some hole on some 3/8" steel plates that I'm going to have galvanized. I bought a 13/32" drill bit and it worked great for about 10 h
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00475.html (8,140 bytes)

2. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: hanslg@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 00:20:24 -0400
An HSS type should do the job. You have to use some oil to avoid burning/overheating the drill though. If you want to be a little fancy you can buy a carbon-nitride drill bit. They, usually, are gold
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00476.html (9,174 bytes)

3. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Hector Garcia XE2K <j_hector_garcia@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:43:28 -0700 (PDT)
Guy Using a bench drill ? if you are not using a bench drill where the speed is SLOW you can eat and eat the bits use any lubrican you have , careful with WD-40 if is very hot can ignite , transmissi
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00477.html (9,619 bytes)

4. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: veblencf@hcc.net
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:37:55 -0700 (PDT)
Try using a washer at the drill site. Fill the washer with oil and then drill your hole. It will be easier, save your drill and accomplish the job easier/quicker. I am assuming that you are doing thi
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00478.html (10,702 bytes)

5. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Tom Sneden, K6VCR" <k6vcr@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:14:29 -0700
Are you using a drill press? Are you using cutting oil? Maybe less pressure and more oil and a better quality bit. 73, Tom Hi all, I don't know why this is so hard. I'm trying to drill out some hole
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00479.html (9,677 bytes)

6. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Michael Baker" <k7dd@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:15:01 -0700
If you need to drill that many holes, get the best bit you can afford and a sharpener and keep the bit sharp. Drill about 15 to 20 holes and resharpen. Drill Doctor is ok and reasonably priced. Micha
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00480.html (8,690 bytes)

7. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Charlie Gallo <Charlie@TheGallos.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 01:03:36 -0400
Hey Guy, OK, some questions, and a quick tutorial on drill bits What are you using to drive your drill bit? What kind of speed, and what kind of pressure? It's going to be REAL hard to get sufficient
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00481.html (11,410 bytes)

8. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Roger (K8RI)" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 01:34:06 -0400
Others have covered much of this already: Use good drill bits...purchase at least a half dozen. With 140 holes I'd plan on a dozen of each size from the pilot hole to finished hole. Drill a pilot hol
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00482.html (10,326 bytes)

9. [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Jim Thomson" <Jim.thom@telus.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 01:38:06 -0700
Hi all, I don't know why this is so hard. I'm trying to drill out some hole on some 3/8" steel plates that I'm going to have galvanized. I bought a 13/32" drill bit and it worked great for about 10 h
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00483.html (11,801 bytes)

10. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: jimlux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 05:00:14 -0700
Are you using a cutting lubricant? Are you doing it in one shot, or starting with a small drill size and working up? What speed are you running the drill at? (It should be fairly slow, RPM wise..) Ar
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00484.html (8,465 bytes)

11. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: TexasRF@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:15:23 EDT
Guy, did you use some oil to reduce friction/heating? Did you slow the drill speed way down to reduce heating? 73, Gerald K5GW In a message dated 3/23/2010 11:12:03 P.M. Central Daylight Time, guy_mo
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00485.html (8,921 bytes)

12. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Blake Bowers" <bbowers@mozarks.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:26:31 -0500
A cutting torch works as a great drill for me. Don't take your organs to heaven, heaven knows we need them down here! Be an organ donor, sign your donor card today. __________________________________
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00486.html (14,469 bytes)

13. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Jim Miller KG0KP" <JimMiller@STL-OnLine.Net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:40:50 -0500
Finally, somebody who KNOWS about cutting oil. It's absolutely amazing to me that so many people think you can use motor oil for drilling or cuting threads and how few of the want-to-be hardware stor
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00487.html (14,190 bytes)

14. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Larry McDavid <lmcdavid@lmceng.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:02:40 -0700
"Dark" cutting oil usually means it is "sulfurized." Sulfurized cutting oil is good for machining steel and should work better even if hand drilling. "Light" cutting oil is not sulfurized and is not
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00488.html (9,884 bytes)

15. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Jack Brindle <jackbrindle@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:40:48 -0700
All these responses, and only one person talked about the quality level of the bit. My experience is that HSS bits wear out quickly, not matter what you do with oiling. I prefer titanium bits - they
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00489.html (10,661 bytes)

16. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "johne tds.net" <johne@tds.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:49:58 -0500
Try the gold color bit ( Titanium nitride coated twist bit) and animal fat or lard is the best lub to use. de John K0CQW _______________________________________________ ______________________________
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00490.html (9,840 bytes)

17. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: "Gary Schafer" <garyschafer@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:25:33 -0400
Lard or kerosene for aluminum, cutting oil for steel. 73 Gary k4FMX _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk@co
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00493.html (11,278 bytes)

18. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Charlie Gallo <Charlie@TheGallos.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:35:38 -0400
"Titanium" bits 1st - they are not "titanium" - they are bits that have been coated with Titanium Nitride coating - generally called TiN coating in the industry. It's one of many types of coatings us
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00494.html (12,430 bytes)

19. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: K7LXC@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:44:13 EDT
Here's my 2 cents worth. I'd use a small bit for a pilot hole and then use a step-drill (e.g. Unibit) to get it to the desired size. Those step-drills will enlarge it to a nearly perfect round hole i
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00495.html (8,209 bytes)

20. Re: [TowerTalk] Drill bits (score: 1)
Author: Guy Molinari <guy_molinari@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:21:49 +0000
Hi Steve, I got 15 plates with the AB-105 hardware. I'll only need 6 of them for the 2 towers I'm putting up. Since I have them and they are rusty, I'm going to enlarge the holes before I get them ho
/archives//html/Towertalk/2010-03/msg00497.html (10,023 bytes)


This search system is powered by Namazu