I have received a LOT of personal email from those that are interested in
making quality pc boards "in the kitchen" and "the back yard". As a result,
I am in the process of starting a website dedicated to that cause and will
most likely be offering some of the necessary "ingredients". I doubt that I
will offer the acid and the H2O2 because of the problems associated with
shipping chemicals.
Most Of the questions have been about these two products. The H2O2 should
be as strong as you can get. I use 50% when I can get it. For those of you
in the larger cities--one source was from a company that manufactures faded
jeans. If you will contact a chemical company in your area, you can usually
presuade them to give you one of their customers that buys in volumne so
that you may go to them and convince them to sell you a small quantity. The
beauty shops have atleast 30% which will work but at a slower rate.
The HCL is the common muratic acid that you get at building supply stores or
swimming pool supplies.
I have a site now for this but it has no information on it. I will getup a
page or two and post the URL.
Billy Dean Ward
Billy Dean Ward
>From: "Mike Baker" <k7dd@qwest.net>
>To: "Billy Ward" <billydeanward@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
To: <amps@contesting.com>
>Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 08:05:13 -0700
>
>Hello Billy,
> Well, add my name to the list of folks interested in your method. I
>haven't done PC boards in years because I hated the BS or waiting for the
>board to etch or having it clean off the board because the resist wasn't
>all that good, etc. If I could make professional looking boards in my back
>yard I would be interested.
> BTW, I know where to get the Acid (pool acid) locally but H2O2 that
>you get at the drug store is only 1 or 2 percent at most. Even the type
>use by hair dressers is only maybe 5% and high percentage stuff is toxic
>and dangerous (the germans used it as the oxidizer in the ME262 rocket
>plane in WW2 !! ) so please clairfy if you will.
> Thanks in advance,
>Mike Baker K7DD
>k7dd@qwest.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Billy Ward
> To: amps@contesting.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 4:04 PM
> Subject: [AMPS] Making PC boards/Silkscreen
>
>
> Greetings Carl,
>
> It would probably take over an hour to author a letter telling exactly
>how to do the silkscreen method of making PC boards. However, if there are
>enough in the group that would be interested in learning how, I could take
>the time to write about it Many years ago, I did a demo for a Ham Radio
>Club where I started with the tape-up layout and produced a finished etched
>and cleaned ready-to-use 4" X 6" board in 16 minutes flat.
>
> I am planning a website devoted to that task in the near furture--say by
>Fall. At that time, I am going to be offering all of the supplys necessary
>for the job. Interest shown by this group might be somewhat of a measure of
>whether I should continue with my plans.
>
> I will tell you that the ferric chloride method is something that you
>will throw rocks at when you learn about the etchant that I use. It has a
>couple of requirements that must be strictly adherred to and other than
>that it is superior to any methods that I have come across:
>
> It must be well ventilated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> It must not get too hot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> The following solution requires NO heating, NO bubbling, No agitation!
>
> 1-part H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide)
> 1-part Muratic acid (Hydrochloric Acid)
> 8-parts H2O (water)
>
> The boards are suspended in the solution and the reaction causes a
>thermogenic reaction and heats the solution. It must not get above 155 F
>or it will boil out of the etching tank--even if it is tall. Adding a cup
>of Amonium Hydroxide will raise the danger point to about 187 F which is
>easier to work with.
>
> But if you get your hands in the solution a transdermal thing will
>happen and eventually you will have Amonium
> Chloride (from the Amonium Hydroxide reacted with Hydrochloric Acid)
>get into your urine and you'll flunk a U/A for methamphetamine.
>
> In a fresh solution that used gallons as the measurements=10 gallons
>total, I could etch 24 4" X 6" single-sided, 2-OZ
> boards in 3 minutes and 20 seconds.
>
> To refresh the solution, add H202!
>
> Billy Dean Ward
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: carl seyersdahl
> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 12:21 PM
> To: Billy Ward; amps@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [AMPS] Making tubes
>
> I'm not exactly crazy about making my own tubes, but I do like to make
>a pc board now and then. Can you tell me where I can get info on the
>'silkscreen " method making pc boards. It would likely be a big improvement
>over what I've been doing with a magic marker and ferric chloride. thanks
> carl / kz5ca
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Billy Ward
> To: amps@contesting.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 2:06 PM
> Subject: [AMPS] Making tubes
>
>
>
> Greetings Group,
>
> I will ask this question at the chance of being made to look
>ignorant!
>
> With the high price of tubes, I wonder if anyone has ever invisioned
>a homebrew project to actually make the tube from scratch? I know that it
>would be a little more than the average ham is used to working with but why
>could we not use something such as stainless steel tubing and come up with
>a decent power transmitting tube. After all, someone once did that!
>
> We all know approximately what is needed and some of the group, I am
>sure, may have worked for places such as Eimac etc. and have a lot of
>knowledge of what goes into such a task.
>
> Sometimes things like this is MUCH more difficult than meets the eye
>and on the other hand, some things are dirt simple and just appear to be
>difficult. Like making pc boards from scratch--some would not think of it
>and others like me can turn one out from drawing to board in 30-45 minutes
>using the silk-screen method at the kitchen sink.
>
> Billy Dean Ward
>
>
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