On Nov 16, 2005, at 2:27 PM, Gudguyham@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/16/2005 11:34:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> r@somis.org writes:
>> However, if a neutral is in place, and it is bonded to the cabinet, in
>> the rare event that the safety-ground is severed, the cabinet could
>> not
>> possibly become a shock hazard.
>>
> If it is bonded to the cabinet it is no longer a neutral
If it goes to the neutral buss of the mains, it's a neutral.
> it is a bond (technically) regardless of the wire color.? If the
> circuit comes from a sub panel you had better not connect a neutral to
> the cabinet if a bond wire is already in place.? That would be a
> violation.?
It's a violation to exceed 65mph on a California freeway when you look
in the rear-view mirror and see a 747 with engines aflame setting down
in your lane.
> It should NOT be done even if it originates from a?main panel.? If you
> are going to do this kind of work on your own, why not do it
> correctly??
1. Because I used to teach AC and DC circuit analysis class.
2. Because I realize that two, heavy Cu wires carrying zero-I at full
throttle is one too many.
> In case of a problem if it was determined that something was done
> wrong the insurance companies will clink to that like glue and not
> want to pay.? They are always looking for a way out!
Allstate insurance would first have to prove that the fire was
electrical in origin and that it originated in my - #4 Cu 3-wire 240v
40A circuit.-- to which I would argue that it was NEC-kosher at the
time it was installed 30 years ago. Most of the house fires of
electrical origin in this neighborhood have been caused by rats
munching on vinyl wire insulation. Since we have plenty of cats and
have provided cat-friendly access ports to areas which would be favored
by rodents, if this house ever burns down, it's fairly safe to assume
that some religious berserkos are in town.
Richard L. Measures, AG6K, 805.386.3734. www.somis.org
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