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Re: [Amps] Workshop Danger

To: <g8on@fsmail.net>, <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] Workshop Danger
From: "Jim Garland" <4cx250b@miamioh.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 07:11:11 -0600
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Peter,
Thanks for the great tip, re securing Jacob's chucks. I agree completely that 
using a vertical mill is by far the best solution. I've got a mill, but 
unfortunately it's a small one designed for machining small pieces. I've never 
seen a circle cutter like you describe, but it's obviously a great tool. I did 
invest years ago aith a very heavy duty fly cutter that has a .70" shaft. It's 
relatively stable, all things considered, but I've never used it on anything 
heavier than .125" aluminum sheet. Good clamping is essential. By changing 
belts, I can get my drill press down to 300rpm, but I agree that even that is 
too fast. Also, lots of cutting fluid is mandatory, the kind designed 
specifically for aluminum.
73,
Jim W8ZR


> 
> Jim,
> 
> I have got from somewhere a 'circle cutter'. The difficulty with the plain 
> fly cutter is that it
> is inherently unbalanced and so has a tendency to dig into the work and 'pick 
> it up'. My
> circle cutter is effectively two fly cutters on opposite sides of the central 
> shaft: as they can
> be moved individually, they need very careful setting up. Better to use than 
> a drill press is a
> vertical milling machine, because
> 
> a)you can get a much finer feed to avoid digging in and
> 
> b)you are less likely to have the drill chuck decide to part company with the 
> arbor or even
> the arbor itself get wrenched out and Morse taper damaged if it does dig in.
> 
> 
> If you have a variable speed drive, that helps a lot too.
> 
> Another difficulty you can get is the drill chuck coming off the arbor. With 
> a Jacobs chuck,
> a good way to avoid that is  (using a lathe) drill through the base of the 
> chuck in the centre.
> Tap the hole 6-32. Then drill a corresponding hole in the arbor and tap the 
> arbor 4-40. A 4-
> 40 screw and washer attaching the chuck to the arbor and they won't come 
> apart, but if you
> want them to, removing the 4-40 screw enables you to use a 6-32 screw to jack 
> them apart.
> The arbors for my mill also have a drawscrew hole tapped 10mm, so a long bolt 
> stops the
> Morse taper arbor shifting.
> 
> 
> A kit of suitable clamping dogs and spacers is a good investment: even then, 
> I've things
> move and as a result, break a half inch diameter end mill!
> 
> But yes, fly cutters can be dangerous. So can all workshop machines - other 
> really nasty
> ones include a revolving wire brush (it can spit wire bristles at you) and a 
> grindstone,
> especially if some fatherless wotsit has ground aluminium on it clogging the 
> pores!
> 
> 
> Of course, there's always the nearest smaller size hole saw and a half round 
> file....
> 
> 
> 73
> 
> Peter G3RZP

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