Hello Merv,
I understand the concept, I just didn't know of any amp mfgr doing that.
That one is toast. I could easily make one out of some copper I have
and re-install with a 'just slightly' closer spacing than the plates.
Or, I may just take my chances like I've done for many years. I do know
people who DO arc their caps with regularity; I am not one of those guys.
73 de Steve, NR4M
On 6/26/2017 8:48:PM, Merv Schweigert via Amps wrote:
That small piece formed a arc gap, it prevents the tuning capacitor
from arcing
under some fault condition of mistuning etc.
It is suppose to arc there instead of the tuning cap arcing and
destroying the plates
its usually set just a little smaller gap distance than the gap
between the cap plates.
You take your chance, either set it to the correct gap and have a
saftey measure,
or take your chance at arcing the capacitor some time when the amp is
mistuned.
If yours arced all the time at 400 watts, it would appear the spacing
was set to small.
Hello all,
Good news, I guess.
That mystery board is a sophisticated T/R board assembly that was
introduced many, many years ago. It still is not documented in the
schematic on the Ameritron page.
That aside, I found the problem. I will try to describe as best I
can, but if anyone wants a pic, let me know.
Anyway, on the PI/PI-L input cap, C1, there was an issue. On the top
of these air variable caps the aluminum blades are fixed (stator.)
The main aluminum frame mounts to the chassis and the movable blades
of the capacitor (rotor) are mounted on a shaft, which, in turn is
mounted to the main capacitor frame. The fixed blades are mounted on
a two threaded brass rods and separated by aluminum spacers. These
brass rods, with fixed blades attached are mounted to ceramic
insulators, and these insulators are then attached to the main
frame. This makes a solid assembly that will allow the rotor to
accurately variably mesh with the stator blades.
Now for the issue. The ends of the threaded brass rods are used to
make mechanical connections to the rest of the plate tank circuit.
The nut is removed and the copper strap, wire, etc is placed over the
end of the brass rod and the nut replaced. 90% of us have probably
seen this. The front end of one of the rods, had a piece of silver
plated copper strap about 5/16 inch wide x 3/4 inch long, secured on
the shaft. It went no where. It was positioned coming off the brass
rod in such a manner that it spanned across the ceramic insulator and
was parallel to the fixed alum end of the capacitor. The way it
was, there was only about .050 of an inch between the silvered copper
strap and the cap body, which is at ground potential. The RF
voltage in that cap at anything over about 400 watts out was high
enough to arc and keep arcing as long as power was applied. The
copper strap was significantly melted and cap frame had burn marks
all over it. I have no idea why that one small piece of copper was
there in the first place. I could not find any purpose for it.
I took it off, fired the amp up and in small increments brought it up
to almost full output, about 1400 watts.
Down side is the tube seems 'well worn'. Maybe the arcing didn't
help. 100 watts in, 700 ma plate and 250 ma grid into a dummy load
= 1400 watts out on 15 meters.
Thanks for all the suggestions on getting to the bottom of this.
73 de Steve, NR4M
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