I would use a voltmeter and measure the voltage directly on the pins of
the tubes.
You can also measure voltage drop of each pin as well.
We are hams. We use test equipment to troubleshoot.
????
Thanks
73
Jim W7RY
On 8/4/2021 7:48 AM, Donald Fox via Amps wrote:
Good morning Pete, et al:
Pete, when you say clips, I assume you mean the small, removeable U shaped
clips that apply pressure to the socket fingers themselves? The sockets in my
Henry, are the tried and true Johnson 275s. The main portion of the pins appear
to be riveted in, so I don't think in can easily move them around. It's
interesting to note that Henry directly grounded the 3-500 grids, unlike
Heathkit, Kenwood, etc, who kept the grids slightly above RF ground with small
chokes.
As I look at the socket pins, they look clean and what I would call normal. I
went ahead, and removed/inserted a tube in each socket 3/4 times, and then left
them in, and fired it up. There appears to be progress, as the brightness of
both now seems to be almost equal. The ZG tubes with their graphite structure
are a bit harder to judge, unlike the original Eimac design where the top of
the star shaped anode assembly is open.
Along this journey, I've discovered that the front 3-500 seems to have about
60-70% of air flow that the rear one does. I'd sure like to figure that one
out. Given the size (and noise) of the blower, it's kind of surprising that the
tubes stay in their sockets, lol.
Henry used those darned Bristol screws to secure the anode coolers to the
original Eimac's, and I can't seem to locate one to get them swapped over. I'd
love to get them out of there, and go back in with a normal machine screw for
ease of service.
Don
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