I am surprised. Sacrificing maidens went out because they ran out of maidens
about
1981. Putting QSLs in the bottom of the hole is pointless. The ONLY way to
appease
the gods of RF is to personally bleed on the new tower or antenna. Usually, this
will be accomplished in the course of building. But, if necessary, and you are
so
skillful that you don't nick yourself, it MUST be done before the use of the
tower
or antenna. I'm not superstitious, but something tells me if I don't, it's a
flop.
Yes, I have bled ( accidentally or deliberately ) on every antenna and tower I
have
put up in the last 40 years, with one exception. I tore down that dog the next
day.
73, Ed
-------------------------------------
Name: ed sleight
E-mail: k4sb@avana.net
Time: 21:18:01
This message was sent by Chameleon
-------------------------------------
>From David Clemons <dave@egh.com> Thu Apr 25 21:15:34 1996
From: David Clemons <dave@egh.com> (David Clemons)
Subject: Hints and kinks (cleaning aluminum yagi elements)
Message-ID: <Pine.3.89.9604251656.B10379-0100000@newman.egh.com>
Hi,
I thought I remembered hearing that in general you shouldn't be
cleaning aluminum elements (at least t=FBe high quality aluminum used
nowadays, I think it is T-6061?). The logic was that this aluminum
oxidizes a little, then remains in a state of equilibrium. Cleaning it
therefore would have no effect other than to cuase it to resume oxidizing
until it reached the equilibrium state again. (A lot of work for
nothing.) I'm not sure, but I think that strong chemical cleaners might
leave enough residue to throw the equilibrium way out of balance. Last,
but not least, I think anything you coat these elemnts with will only=20
last a very short time. I have a couple towers which rise above the tree=
=20
levels and I've noticed that I have never been able to keep paint on=20
metal above the tree tops for more than a few months. The constant air=20
movement (with whatever it is carrying) has a real abrasive effect on=20
paints. I am somewhere between 5 and 10 miles air distance from salt=20
water, but I don't believe the air conatins salt as I've never seen the=20
tell-tale yellow-greenish color of salt corrosion.
=09Perhaps there will be some who disagree with me on the aluminum=20
subject, so speak up is so. I am not a chemistry major and I am willing=20
to be corrected on the subject of oxidation.
73, Dave Clemons K1VUT
>From David Clemons <dave@egh.com> Thu Apr 25 21:25:06 1996
From: David Clemons <dave@egh.com> (David Clemons)
Subject: Power, XMatch, and 72 ohm twn lead
Message-ID: <Pine.3.89.9604251636.A10473-0100000@newman.egh.com>
Hi,
N4ZR made some comments on using his 80 meter full wave loop on
other bands. His experiences are similar to mine. For many years I had
an 80 meter full wave delta loop, with the top point about 90 feet high.
This was fed with 50 ohm coax and a matching transformer made from 72 ohm
coax. (The design came from an excellent article in Oct 1984 QST by
Doug DeMaw, W1FB). A couple years ago, one the elements on my Cushcraft
40 meter yagi fell off. I wanted to operate on the ARRL DX Contest, so I
hung a 40 meter delta loop up at 70 feet (same design as the 80 meter loop).
However, I accidently found out that the 80 meter loop loaded up on 40
under 2:1 and actually outperformed the 40 meter loop on 40! If it had
been simply a case of the 80m loop loading well, I might have blamed it
on the 200 or so feet of coax. However, it actually performed better.
Was I surprised? Yes. Did I argue with the results? Not a chance.
73, Dave Clemons K1VUT
>From John R. Moore" <jrmoore@jaxnet.com Thu Apr 25 22:09:40 1996
From: John R. Moore" <jrmoore@jaxnet.com (John R. Moore)
Subject: Garbage on the reflector
Message-ID: <317FEA14.1E8D@pop.jaxnet.com>
I have watched with amazement the amount of garbage messages that are put on
this
reflector. Yet when an individual put a message on here about a new web site
about
his business all the policemen were out in force flaming him for daring to
interfere
with their trival messages such as the silly thread that is taking up half of
the
time on this reflector now about sacrificing to the RF gods. I grant you he
knew
that Trey didnt like the message but at least it had some value. This trash
going
on now doesnt even bring a snicker and for sure has no value as far as DX goes.
So come on all you reflector Cops now is your chance.
John W5HUQ
>From snace@tdrss.wsc.nasa.gov (Steve Nace) Thu Apr 25 22:18:52 1996
From: snace@tdrss.wsc.nasa.gov (Steve Nace) (Steve Nace)
Subject: Average Solar Flux Data - 20 yr plot
Message-ID: <v01510100ada59c4f0c36@[192.77.86.212]>
A good plot of average sloar flux was found at:
http://www.pics.com/trs/graph4.htm
Other solar data also at this site.
de Hose KN5H
>From Dale L. Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org Fri Apr 26 00:14:23 1996
From: Dale L. Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org (Dale L. Martin)
Subject: Texas QSO Party NA-9 Template
Message-ID: <199604252214.RAA00821@hal-pc.org>
Attached is a template created by KZ8E to use with NA-9 in the Texas
QSO Party (don't ask me what it does--I don't yet have NA-9!).
KZ8E, Earl, can be reached at kz8e@wt.net, if you have questions.
73 and see you from the armadillo trail (or, at least, the
armadillo-strewn highways and byways of the lone start state),
Dale Martin, KG5U
Houston, Texas
http://www.hal-pc.org/~kg5u
>From Dale L. Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org Fri Apr 26 00:16:17 1996
From: Dale L. Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org (Dale L. Martin)
Subject: Texas QSO Party NA-9 Template, part 2
Message-ID: <199604252216.RAA01033@hal-pc.org>
Rats! My first posting to CQ-Contest and I blew it.
Here's the attachment!
Dale Martin, KG5U
Houston, Texas
http://www.hal-pc.org/~kg5u
>From Dale L. Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org Fri Apr 26 00:16:17 1996
From: Dale L. Martin" <kg5u@hal-pc.org (Dale L. Martin)
Subject: Texas QSO Party NA-9 Template, part 2
Message-ID: <199604252215.RAA01028@hal-pc.org>
* This message contains the file 'na9tem~1', which has been
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end
>From DFREY@maila.harris.com (DFREY) Thu Apr 25 22:15:14 1996
From: DFREY@maila.harris.com (DFREY) (DFREY)
Subject: No subject
Message-ID: <17ffc730@maila.harris.com>
>...article in QST(?) about cleaning aluminum elements. ...quick
>way to clean elements on a yagi before putting it back
>together. Also how about cleaning stranded copper wire that has
>weathered.
Bill,
Use 000 steel wool on the lapped parts of the beam before applying the
penetrox or whatever goo you use on Al-to-Al joints. It's quick,
cheap and easy. Alcohol won't touch aluminum oxide, a very
nonreactive, tough, and noncinducting substance. Unless you have a
neatness fetish, don't worry about cleaning the parts of the beam
which are not directly touching another. The thickness of the AlO3
layer is very thin, will just reform in a few weeks anyway, and is the
durable protective coating which permits aluminum elements to resist
the elements of nature for decades.
Copper oxide, on the other hand, is a relatively good conductor not
worth your time to remove. Dull black wire hides better than shiny
copper anyway, no performance hit. If the copper has bright green
corrosion, find out why. It indicates something other than normal
atmospheric corrosion process unless you live beside a smelter where
there is high sulphur content.
Dick, K4XU
>From Spike Lazar <slazar19@sgi.net> Thu Apr 25 23:55:28 1996
From: Spike Lazar <slazar19@sgi.net> (Spike Lazar)
Subject: Garbage on the reflector
Message-ID: <199604252255.SAA02256@orion.bv.sgi.net>
>W5HUQ At 05:09 PM 4/25/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>I have watched with amazement the amount of garbage messages that
>are put on this reflector. This trash going on now doesnt even bring
>a snicker. So come on all you reflector Cops now is your chance.
>John W5HUQ
Give this guy a Jeffrey Dahmer cookbook!
Sincerly yours,
dr. Bafoofnik
p.s., for a clean sweep, bury a VY1JA card, It really does works!
>From DFREY@maila.harris.com (DFREY) Thu Apr 25 22:15:14 1996
From: DFREY@maila.harris.com (DFREY) (DFREY)
Subject: No subject
Message-ID: <17ffc730@maila.harris.com>
>...article in QST(?) about cleaning aluminum elements. ...quick
>way to clean elements on a yagi before putting it back
>together. Also how about cleaning stranded copper wire that has
>weathered.
Bill,
Use 000 steel wool on the lapped parts of the beam before applying the
penetrox or whatever goo you use on Al-to-Al joints. It's quick,
cheap and easy. Alcohol won't touch aluminum oxide, a very
nonreactive, tough, and noncinducting substance. Unless you have a
neatness fetish, don't worry about cleaning the parts of the beam
which are not directly touching another. The thickness of the AlO3
layer is very thin, will just reform in a few weeks anyway, and is the
durable protective coating which permits aluminum elements to resist
the elements of nature for decades.
Copper oxide, on the other hand, is a relatively good conductor not
worth your time to remove. Dull black wire hides better than shiny
copper anyway, no performance hit. If the copper has bright green
corrosion, find out why. It indicates something other than normal
atmospheric corrosion process unless you live beside a smelter where
there is high sulphur content.
Dick, K4XU
|