On 12/31/2011 4:39 PM, Jeff Blaine wrote:
> I have the same problem with my Samsung. 80m and 160m only. My solution -
> which the neighbors probably won't like - is to pull the power from that
> unit when it's contest weekend.
I have a 40" Samsung HD LCD set. There are two DVRs with both IR and
440 MHz controls. I run the legal limit on 160 and up. The TV signals
are off the air, satellite, and cable. BTW mine has those touch type
controls as well.
The TV antenna (with antenna mounted preamp) is mounted about 10 feet
below where my tribander was (it's down temporarily) The satellite dish
is also mounted on the tower. The coax cables ALL run down the tower and
into the house through the same conduit. They also have the shields
grounded at the base of the tower and the bulkhead where they come into
the house. The 160 half sloper runs almost directly over the conduit
between the tower and house entrance. The 75M fan dipole is fairly close
. I have absolutely no interference. I did have a 7L 6-meter yagi
above the tribander and stacked 12's on 144 and stacked 11's on 440. I
was running up to several hundred watts on two meters as well as six.
With TV sets being primarily plastic and no shielding the RF could be
getting in most any where including speaker leads and particularly if it
has external speakers hooked up. It could still be getting in via the
power cable is the choke is insufficient. It might take chokes on the
speaker leads even if they are internal and of course it could be
getting into the control circuit directly. Another thought is, do they
have an old, unused TV antenna on or in the house still connected to the
coax. Strong RF into an unused preamp can generate all kinds of
frequencies including the ones used for RF control. Of course it could
just be RF getting directly into the controls circuitry.
Another though was end table lamps. Lights like LEDs and CFLs that
require a power supply are also susceptible to rectifying RF and
generating lots of signals. Those not only have to be turned off and
unplugged, but removed well away from said TV set. Often even out of
the house. Basically anything that uses electricity can be the culprit.
What you need is a spectrum analyzer and look for signals any where near
the operating frequency of the RF portion of the remote. I know you
said it's IR, but as has already been said, they often use both IR and
RF. I don't know about that specific set.
73
Roger (K8RI)
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