There are some synthetic greases made that are water proof, cold proof, hot
proof etc. I have used them on misc. items that needed 1 or more of the
above properties. I have tubes of it in my garage that are well over 10
years old, and still plyable. How ever I think the problem with Petroleum
grease is that it dries out, maybe this synthetic grease will dry out in
the "open" also, but I found it to be a superior lube in at least some
cases. Probably worth a try. How many of you have had a switch suddenly
"go bad", then when you dis-assembled it there was nothing wrong? Usually
the grease placed in the switch by the factory has dried out, and Voila, a
problem! Maybe the real cure would be to find out how long the grease
works before it dries out, and clean and re-grease the PTO just before
that? Has any one kept track of about how long between "re-builds" on
their PTO? When I do mine, I will experiment with the synthetic, which may
be what the DOW 44 is.
73 Thanks, Paul K9PEP
At 01:58 PM 1/6/99 -0600, rohre wrote:
>
>Hi,
>I think Lubriplate and White Lithium Grease are two different types. Have
not
>had a chance to check this further, but I have a can of old "Lubriplate"
brand
>grease that is more yellow, and was widely used in phono changers to grease
>gears and slides, BUT, it gets stiff with age and dust, and does the same
>thing as red TT grease. DON'T use this, on TT PTO's. It comes in a can with
>black lettering at the time mine was made. The White Lithium Grease contains
>the metal Lithium, which is a soft bearing type metal. Am not sure it is
>ideal on brass, as it is usually used against Steel.
>
>I believe also, that there are some red synthetic car greases now, that might
>be resistant to hardening, and thus, TT might be using something better than
>axle grease.
>
>Anyway, I guess the thing to do is check the data sheet for any substitute as
>I did on Dow 44, before trying. Beware of old cans of grease with no
>information about their temperature range, and intended uses.
>
>73, Stuart K5KVH
>
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