While I do use about 1 cu/yd of concrete for the base, I always set stubs in
the concrete, allowing them to stand about 6" to 8" above the concrete. The
stubs are 1" dia cold roll steel bar with a J turned on the end in the
concrete. The concrete is finished 4" to 6" above grade with a crown to
shed water, ice and snow. The tower stacks over the stubs and is attached
by the 2 per leg bolts. This arrangement assures that water will not build
up in the legs. When I get ready to remove the tower, unbolt it and haul
it away. No leaving of the expensive tower section in the concrete.
I had a personal friend killed as a result of a guyed tower falling while he
was on it. Towers are nothing to be conservative about when erecting time
comes. Even of more concern when removing them as weather causes
deterioration of supports and guy hardware.
I don't care what luck one has had with their tower nor for how long. If
it is not installed and maintained correctly........it is dangerous.
73
Bob, K4TAX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Branch, N5BI" <gabranch@att.net>
To: <rmcgraw@blomand.net>; "Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment"
<tentec@contesting.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Bulk] Re: [TenTec] Rohn 25G; hinged bases
I always set my tower base into concrete. I dig a 4' deep hole, that is
2" diameter. I put 4"of sand first, then 6" of gravel into the hole and
then insert the base. This allows for moisture drainage for the tower
legs..so they won't burst from frozen water build up. I Pour concrete
into the hole around the base section, until it reaches ground level. Then
I mount a 6" form(aluminum flashing) at ground level, around the exposed
tower section, and continue my pour. The raised concrete level keeps the
tower legs out of contact with the ground. This method helps to retard
rust where the tower legs come in contact with the concrete, by raising
the exposed tower above the dirt..easy to check for rusted or unstable
legs..All tower installations should always be installed according to
manufacturers specs..Don't take short cuts..that's how we die on towers.
73, Gary, N5BI ..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Mcgraw" <rmcgraw@blomand.net>
To: "Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment" <tentec@contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 6:08 PM
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [TenTec] Rohn 25G; hinged bases
Please read Rohn installation documents. As a tower moves there is
uplifting of the legs on the upwind side and a downward force on the
downwind side.
Not having the correct concrete pier at the base is a very dangerous
situation.
73
Bob, K4TAX
roger
i dont know where this came from but a ham friend of mine did use a house
bracket and a ground mount i took it down for him it wasnt in concrete
you really dont need it. i have 1 100ft tower guyed tower strait in the
ground no concrete and another 120ft same deal of course they are guyed
very well.
those towers have now been up 15 years and no problems.
by the way he had a 7 el. thunderbird on top of it plus a 2 mtr ant. so
dont be afraid. if you need me just drop a note i can advise.
all things are possible in Christ Jesus our savior
--- On Sat, 2/9/13, Roger Rippy <svtincup@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Roger Rippy <svtincup@yahoo.com>
Subject: [TenTec] Rohn 25G; hinged bases
To: "TenTec@contesting.com" <TenTec@contesting.com>
Date: Saturday, February 9, 2013, 1:29 PM
Thanks for the comments regarding hinged bases and lifting towers with
Rohn 25G; especially those
who took the time to respond off-line with their experiences, pictures,
and suggestions. It was
great that WA7U even offered to help climb the tower if necessary!!
Thanks to these comments
I have decided that I will stick with Plan A and order the free standing
(non-hinged) tower kit
from Hill Communications. I do not need a wobbly tower; I do not want to
use guys on a short
tower (35'); and I do not want to bracket the tower to the house. So now
comes the fun part....
Hi Hi 73s W7RIP Roger Rippy Bozeman, Montana
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