IMPORTANT NOTICE:
FOR THIS MESSAGE TO HAVE THE PROPER APPEARANCE ON YOUR SCREEN,
USE A NON PROPORTIONAL CHARACTER, SUCH AS COURIER OR COURIER
NEW. DO N O T USE A PROPORTIONAL SPACING CHARACTER SUCH AS
TIMES NEW ROMAN.
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* H E A R D I S L A N D D X - P E D I T I O N *
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* PILOT PROGRAM MESSAGE # 15 *
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* THE ISLAND *
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When Captain James Cook visited the South Sandwich Islands,
he commented, "This is the most awful place in the world. "
Captain Cook never visited Heard Island.
If Captain Cook had visited Heard Island, he would certainly
have amended his earlier statement. Of the sub-antarctic
islands amateurs concern themselves with (Bouvet, South
Sandwich, Peter I, and Heard) Heard Island is the most
challenging. Not only is Heard very remote, it is one of
the most hostile environments on earth.
Heard Island is one element in a larger Territory vested in
the Commonwealth of Australia. The Territory includes Heard
Island, the McDonald Islands, and various offshore rocks
and shoals, and the territorial sea, totally 6364 km2.
Heard Island was used by sealers from the mid-19th Century
until 1929. In 1947 the first Australian National Antarctic
Research Expedition (ANARE) set up a research station at
Atlas Cove, and undertook the first detailed scientific
survey of the island. The station was closed in 1955 and is
now in ruins. Only 2 visits by small tourist parties have
been made up to 1994. Considerable parts of Heard Island
have not yet been visited by humans.
Heard Island lies in the southern Indian Ocean at 53deg05min S
and 73deg30min E. It measures 40 km by 20 km with an area of
368 km2. Its principal feature is the intermittently active
volcano Big Ben, peaking at 2745 m above sea level. Toward
the Northwest is Laurens Peninsula, which is a subsidiary
volcanic cone 715 m above sea level. The remaining areas are
mainly narrow coastal flats at the western and eastern ends.
The margin is characterized by coastal ice cliffs and
exposed high-energy rocky beaches. Heard Island is
biologically pristine: there is no record of any human-
introduced species.
Eleven vascular plants, most sub-Antarctic species, are
known from HI. The major plant communities are tussock
grassland, meadow, herbfield, pool complex, cushion carpet,
and fellfield. So far, 42 species of mosses, 20 liverwort
species, and more than 40 lichens have been identified.
Ferns and terrestrial and freshwater algae are present, but
have not been documented.
Seven species of seals occur at HI, of which the southern
elephant seal is by far the most abundant. Most of the seals
reside on the eastern side of the island. Twenty-four
species of birds have been recorded, of which 19 are known
to breed there. The avian fauna include penguins, skuas,
sheathbills, albatross, petrels, and the Heard Island
cormorant (which is endemic). As of April, 1995, the number
of invertebrates known was 128, some of which are endemic.
Some of the insects show clear evolutionary morphological
modification consistent with the presumed isolation.
The marine biology is very poorly known, due to the
difficult conditions for conducting research. A large brown
alga forms large forests. The sub-littoral fauna is
apparently of low diversity. The fish fauna is dominated by
the Antarctic cods and ice fish. Only 9 species have been
recorded from shallow waters.
Meteorological conditions on Heard Island are highly
variable. Temperatures during the Austral summer are
slightly about 5 C (41 F). The winds at Atlas Cove are
predominantly westerly, with mean speed 26 km/hr. December
is the least windy month. Snowfalls occur year round, with
the least (about 10 cm/month) occurring during the Austral
summer. The average annual rainfall at Atlas Cove is 135 cm.
The sun shines an average of about 2 hours per day in
January.
Glacial ice covers more than 80 percent of Heard Island.
These glaciers descend from Big Ben; they have steep surface
slopes, are fast-flowing, and shallow. Movement in the
center is typically about 250 m/yr. Average particle
residence time in the glaciers is about 1090 years.
Significant retreat of most glaciers has occurred in the
last decade.
HI sits on a limestone accumulation on the Kerguelen
Plateau, dating to the middle Eocene to early Oligocene
(i.e., ca. 40-30 MY B. P.). The two main volcanic centers
(Big Ben and Mt. Dixon) produce two extremely different
types of lava. Big Ben is a conical volcano 20 km in
diameter at the base. It emits steam continuously, and the
summit is warm to the touch. Morphologically, it is
dominated by an avalanche amphitheater. Much of the volcano
has slumped to the southwest, and the resultant cavity has
been filled by later activity. Big Ben has been climbing
twice, in 1965 and in 1983.
There is a variety of lava fields and volcanic ash deposits.
There are alluvial features such as melt streams and karst
features in limestone areas. Classic volcanic features
include pahoehoe lava flows, spatter cones, ash cones, and
lava tubes. In combination with glacial retreat, there are
terminal lakes and moraines. Peat associated with vegetation
occurs on the poorly drained low lying coastal areas.
The Australian Antarctic Division has divided Heard Island
into "Use Areas." The DX-pedition can occupy one of the
two "Main Use Areas" on the Island.
The Atlas Cove Main Use Area is 2000 meters by 1200 meters.
It extends from just north of Wharf Point to the southern
boundary of Corinth Head and from the southern margin of
Walrus Beach due east to Corinthian Bay. A good deal of
this area is not usable for camps due to tussocks, the
grade, or standing water. This is the site of the old ANARE
buildings, the most accessible landing site, and the best
anchorage. This will be the camp site for the VH0HI
expedition..
The Spit Bay Main Use Area is 25 kilometers away (straight
line, overland). By sea the distance would be over 30
kilometers. Spit bay landings are very difficult as the
surf is often very heavy. While this area does provide a
better shot at North America, it is very exposed. The area
we would be allowed to occupy at Spit Bay is defined by a
150 meter arc centered on a large rock on Trypot Beach.
The old ANARE buildings at Atlas Cove are in ruin. Elephant
seals have caved the sides and most have been torn open and
are drifted full of the black volcanic sand comprising the
surface at the Atlas Cove area. The French ARBEC huts are
in somewhat better repair, but cannot be considered useful.
The area of the old ANARE building is excluded from use.
The underground close to the ANARE station consists of a
couple of inches of very fine volcanic black sand. Normal
stakes will not hold to hold guy wires will not work. Either
spit pneumatic hammers or anchors (sand or snow anchors) as
used on Peter I will be useful.
Heard Island is dominated by Big Ben, a 10,000 ft. volcano
which still vents steam. Big Ben's base is some 30
kilometers in diameter. The mountain spawns numerous
glaciers and catabatic winds.
Wind will be the dominant feature on Heard Island. It is
not unusual to have winds exceeding 100 mph twice per month.
Winds of 130 mph have been recorded on Heard. The wind will
blow rain, sleet, snow, sand, or all four at once. Shelter
and antenna repair will occupy a good deal of your time.
Expected temperatures during the month of January are in the
0 to +10 degrees centigrade range.
We can expect to receive about 3 inches of rain during a two
week stay on Heard Island. The surface upon which you will
camp and walk will be wet with mud and volcanic sand
tracking everywhere. The seals and penguins will add a
healthy layer of manure and guano to the surface.
The Atlas Cove campsite is somewhat sheltered, but minimally
so. The prevailing westerly winds blow across Atlas Cove
and into the camp. Southerly blow unobstructed across the
nullarbor plane to the south. Catabatic winds roar down Big
Ben's western slope and into the campsite. There is some
shelter from north winds, but they do not predominate.
This expedition is a very, very challenging project. It is
more difficult than South Sandwich or Peter I. It can be
done, but it requires a lot of hard work, tolerance, and
cooperation.
73
Your pilots: ON4UN, N1DG, W0EK, K0EU, W4WW, W2IJ, JH1ROJ
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* H E A R D I S L A N D D X - P E D I T I O N *
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* END OF MESSAGE # 15 *
* *
* Dec 31, 1996 - The Heard Island Pilots (island.txt) *
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* H.I. INTERNET ADDRESSES *
* *
*Heard Island reflector: heard@ve7tcp.ampr.org *
*Heard Island WWW site: http://www.ccnet.com/~cordell/HI/ *
* http://www.aurumtel.com/hnews.html*
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