Actually it depended upon the airplane type as to the configuration of
the prop-pitch motor assembly. The small version of the P-P motor was
typically used on fighters such as the P-38. The P-47 used the "medium"
size P-P. As for external appearances, usually when the small motor was
used, a cover with a slight point to it encased the motor and gearhead
assembly entirely (e.g. C-46). There were some older planes where the
prop-pitch was indeed fully exposed i.e. the deep-drawn cover over the
motor portion only and the gearhead itself exposed with no overall
cover. The P-47 P-P was exposed when the Curtiss electric Propeller was
used. Only the actual motor cover was used and is typical of the
"pointy" cover seen on the medium size versions. The larger planes such
as the B-36 used the "large" motor which was fully enclosed.
>From what I've seen, the B-29 did not use an electric feathering
propeller, but a hydraulic type instead. The hydraulic type is evident
by it's nice straight-sided rounded nose cover in the center of the
propeller hub.
Bill Sievers
W5IQJ
On many
K7GCO@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/2/01 9:14:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, K7LXC@aol.com
> writes: <<
> In a message dated 10/2/01 7:09:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> antipode@ne.mediaone.net writes:
>
> > Does anyone out there have a proven way to remove the threaded locking
> > ring which secures the electric motor to the lower gear housing on a
> > prop-pitch motor? All of the previous P-P's I've had experience with
> > had the retaining ring secured by peripheral bolts and was obviously
> > very easy to remove. This one has a threaded ring which has an ominous
> > decal nearby on the housing which says "tighten to 250 to 300 foot
> > lbs.!! (They must have only had gorillas in the AAF to work on these
> > things!).
> >
> > I've got a spanner wrench which I believe was recommended in a post a
> > long time ago, but this doesn't even begin to turn the ring. Using a
> > drive punch with a hammer looks like it would destroy the key slots
> > which obviously I don't want to do. It seems like the only way to
> > remove this ring is with the proper tool and a VERY large gorilla!
> >
> Well - YEAH!
>
> The only method I've seen has been to use a small chisel or screwdriver
> to tap the ring off. If you gouge the slots, just file them with a round
> file.
>
> These transmissions and motors were used to change the pitch of the
> propellors of WW2 airplane engines; the B-29 version plentiful and popular
> so
> there's a reason why their specs are BIG. I can't even imagine how much
> torque they had to hold and change.
>
> You know all those pictures of WW2 planes with their propellors
> turning?
> You know that can on the front of the propellor? That's the motor for the
> PP.
> If anyone's got one for sale, let me know - I'd be interested in it.
> Cheers,
> Steve K7LXC
> Tower Tech
> >>
> That's not quite correct. It's the can for the motor and gear box. There
> was
> another full housing over the whole PP motor and gear box. It matched a
> ridge on the top mounting plate. Without the full housing the water would
> get into the gear box as some had holes in the side above the oil seal.
> These need to be sealed without the full housing. They also weren't
> designed
> to work in the vertical position and that is why water can get down by the
> oil seal unless proper precautions ar taken. It's the greatest rotator ever
> made when properly used. Speeded up they work just fine also. I have my
> original also and it cost $15. k7gco
>
>
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