As a retired mason contractor, I can see where you are going.
You want the verticals stable so you can easily wire the horizontals on
while in the hold.
Ideally, rebar should not extend through the concrete, rebar should not be
within 4" of the concrete.
This is to minimize moisture reaching the rebar and eventually rusting.
If your worried about the rebar cage maintaining it's shape during
construction.
Stick the verticals in the ground at the surface. It's easier to work on
then in the hole.
Then have someone help you lift it and place in the hole.
I also strongly suggest a little gravel in the bottom of the hole which
makes positioning the cage easier. You can wiggle it a bit to get it plumb.
The trick with all rebar cages is to maintain their shape and position while
dumping and vibrating the concrete.
If you gut a couple boards and drill holes to match the vertical rears, you
can nail/clamp to braces on the surface.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Pfeiffer" <va3pl@cuic.ca>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 11:36 AM
Subject: [Towertalk] Rebar Cage
> I become happy owner of TX455 crank up tower. I began planning the rebar
> cage.
> My questions is:
> Can vertical rebar members be driven let say 2 feet deep to the ground at
> the bottom of the hole or this is NO NO...
>
> Andy - VA3PL
>
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