Mark:
When I installed the coax balun on my tribander last year, I followed
the recommendation by Jack WB4MDC in the ARRL Antenna Compendium (Vol 6,
pages 156-157 for those of you following along at home). You strip three or
so inches of jacket off the coax, and cut the shield down to about a half an
inch. Then you wrap a piece of insulated, stranded #14 wie around the
shield and solder. This stranded wire becomes the connection to the shield
and you don't have to worry about wicking.
Then you slip a two-inch long piece of heat-shrink tubing over the
jacket. Then another smaller-diameter piece goes over the center conductor
(I added that to the procedure; I didn't like having the center dielectric
exposed to the elements). Slide the larger tubing up until there is two
inches of center conductor and #14 sticking out of the tubing. Fill the
tubing with hot melt glue, and massage the tubing so the glue fills the
voids. Then apply the heat gun to shrink the tubing around the
Y-connection. (I bought a REAL heat gun for this procedure - no more
matches or soldering guns!)
After the glue has solidified and the tubing cooled, I attached a
couple of crimp terminals to the ends of the two conductors and bloted the
thing to the Yagi's feedpoint. I haven't put any weatherproofing on the
screw terminals yet, but would suggest liquid electrical tape or similar.
73 de
Gene Smar AD3F
-----Original Message-----
From: KI7WX@aol.com <KI7WX@aol.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com <towertalk@contesting.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Date: Thursday, October 10, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Towertalk] Balun Location (more)
>
>With the coax choke approach what are folks doing to terminate the coax
into pigtails for connection to the feedpoint? In my station I've always
avoided coax terminations and junctions which don't end in a fitting that I
can properly waterproof.
>
>Mark
>KI7WX
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