Here is some info from one of my basic knot books, KNOTS FOR CLIMBERS, =
by Craig Luebben. I am not a pro climber or knot man either.
Relative strength of knots:
No knot 100%
Figure 8 70-75%
Double bowline 70-75%
Double fisherman 65-70%
Water knot 60-70%
Over hand knot 60-65%
Clove hitch 60-65%
Square knot 45%
"Tying into the rope...Figure 8 Follow Through (Flemish Bend) is the =
most widely used tie-in knot because it is strong, secure, and easy to =
visually inspect."
The Double Bowline is most useful for tying anchor ropes around trees =
and other features. Some sport climbers perfer it for tying into the =
rope because it has a smaller profile than the Figure 8 and it unties =
easily after being excessively weighted. Unfortuneately, because the =
Double Bowline does untie so easily, it has resulted in several injuries =
and deaths. A secure back up knot is essential, but a Figure 8 Follow =
Through is still a safe tie in knot."
Use a Double Fisherman's knot as the back up knot on both the Figure 8 =
and Double Bowline knots.
A "Extra Pass" can be used instead of a Double Fisherman's to back up a =
Figure 8. It uses less rope and provides a smaller profile.
The "Figure 8 on a Bight" is a good knot to put in the middle of the =
rope for connecting anchors or clipping into the middle of the rope, or =
at any time you need a strong knot in the middle of the rope. It is =
used with a carbiner (preferably locking) to connect a haul line, gear =
to a haul line, isolate a damaged section of rope, and is the best knot =
to tie into primary anchors.
This book is a great thing to have around. ISBN 0-934641-58-7. I paid =
$3.95 for it but forget where. Lee's Sport shop in Kalamazoo, I think. =
Lots of cool climbing stuff there too. =20
Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD
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