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Re: [TowerTalk] Waterproofing "downhill" tape wrap

To: James <jameswarren@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Waterproofing "downhill" tape wrap
From: WA2BPE <wa2bpe@infoblvd.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 15:24:15 -0400
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
ScotchCoat hardens and dies from UV in 1-3 years but is supurb for underground 
use or in conduit.  The tape-silicone-tape method is excellent but I would 
still overspray it with a clear
acrylic as a final coat.  Over time, the acrylic will deteroriate and the outer 
tape layers will weather, but the inside should stay clean and dry.  BTW, if 
you do need to clean tape
residue from connectors, a wire brush (I sometimes use a Dremel tool) seems to 
work better than any solvent.

Tom - WA2BPE

James wrote:

> Steve (K7LXC) made a good clarification on what I posted about wrapping
> the last layer of tape over connectors.
>
> >  Always wrap "downhill" like roofing shingles to keep out water.
>
>     All excellent tips. The last wrap of tape should go UP, then you get the
> shingle-like overlapping wraps.
>
> Cheers,
> Steve (K7LXC)
>
> Thanks Steve for pointing that out. I should have phrased that as - "Start
> your LAST wrap at the BOTTOM of the connector and wrap your way UP, that
> way you'll get the "downhill" overlapping effect like roofing shingles."
>
> And for gooping Scotch Coat over the connector - This was discussed here
> about a month ago. Someone said that they've had good results up north,
> but down here in Texas, it erodes after a year or two and is no longer
> effective. I've used yellow Plastic Dip "Spray on Coating" to provide
> temporary protection of outdoor video connectors that I re-enter about
> twice a year to change video feeds, so I don't know how durable it for
> a longer period. Black might last longer, but yellow was easier to find
> the connector in the dark. I used some Star Brite black liquid electrical
> coating on my dish feedline last year, but haven't checked on it since.
> Both products are sold at Home Depot. YMMV
>
> I wouldn't recommend silicone glue as a sealer as it will eventually
> pull loose from the vinyl coax jacket - the plasticsisers in the vinyl
> act a mold-release agent. Try gluing something on your car dashboard and
> it will pop off in about a year. Try using it on a plexiglass aquarium
> and you'll be mopping water up in about a year.
>
> A trade magazine reported that a saltwater distillation plant solved its
> connector corrosion problems by wrapping them with tape, then gooping
> silicone glue over the tape, and followed with another layer of tape.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------
> My original post:
>
> >The biggest potential problem is water entry. Proper water proofing has
> >already been discussed and someone had a link a a manufacture's applications
> >page. Basically you'll want to do a single layer of half inch tape (the
> >courtesy wrap - as the next layer of butyl rubber will adhere to the
> >outer jacket to the point it will never come off, its called "self-fusing"
> >for a good reason!), next comes the butyl rubber layer and its shaped like
> >a football, then several layers of one inch wide tape, followed by two
> >wraps of half inch again. Always wrap "downhill" like roofing shingles to
> >keep out water. Never pull the tape to cut it, use a knife or scissors.
> >Don't stretch the last layer too tight, just pull it about an inch extra.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> See: http://www.mscomputer.com  for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless 
> Weather Stations", and lot's more.  Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any 
> questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
>
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_______________________________________________

See: http://www.mscomputer.com  for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless Weather 
Stations", and lot's more.  Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any questions 
and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.

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