Some coax is just bad news when applying heat. Same for some PL259 designs
using plastic dielectric. IMO these should always be crimped, not soldered.
Use Teflon connectors and high quality coax in a soldering application. As
Gary recommends, I agree that high heat is the best way to get a reliable
solder connection on the braid with minimal melting of the coax and
connector dielectric.
73, Keith NM5G
[snip]
Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
> Steve Katz wrote:
[snip]
>>Screw on the connector, which by such action will push the braid back
>>very slightly from the original cut end, to expose the braid through
>>the four solder holes in the connector body once the connector is
>>fully screwed onto the cable jacket. Solder the holes, wait a minute,
>>solder the center conductor -- done.
>
>
> Two additional H&Ks:
>
> 1. Unless the plug is silver plated, it often helps to clear the
> plating out of the solder holes, so you're soldering to bare brass.
>
> 2. If you pre-heat the plug body with a hot-air gun, you can use your
> normal 25W soldering iron. (A hot-air gun is much better value than a
> giant soldering iron, and it does heat-shrink tubing too.)
>
>
The whole idea of using a large iron to solder the plug with is to get the
job done quickly with enough localized heat so you don't spread so much heat
to the coax. By preheating the plug you have defeated yourself.
73
Gary K4FMX
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