Hi Scott,
I do something almost identical to Gene's procedure (see Gene's link below),
except that I solder on 2 pieces of insulated, stranded wire (one to shield,
one to center), and I use a 1.5" length of 1/2" CPVC pipe. I slide the pipe
section over the exposed soldered joints and braid, and fill it with hot
melt glue. Tape over the bottom of the pipe to center the coax and keep the
glue from running out until it cools.
This is also convenient for terminating a coax with a UHF female connector,
where you separate and solder the shield and center to two different points.
In this case, you don't need extension leads. Just don't forget to slide the
pipe section on BEFORE you solder the connector <sheepish grin>! I usually
clamp the assembly in a vise with the pipe vertical to make it easier to
fill.
In both cases, I finish with a wrap of Scotch Super 33 or 88 as a
sacrificial UV layer.
--...MARK_N1LO...--
<< I recently acquired a Hygain 6m yagi. It uses an open-wire coax feed
(coax
connected to two screw terminals). I'm concerned about corrosion and water
ingress in the coax. What is the best technique to secure these
connections? Are there any products that will limit water from wicking up
the coax? Thanks, Scott N7SS >>
<<Scott: I have a similar connection between the coax balun and the
connection point
on my Bencher Skyhawk triband Yagi. I posted something to TowerTalk at that
time:
http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-10/msg00391.html
. Hope this helps. 73 de Gene Smar AD3F >>
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Stations", and lot's more. Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any questions
and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
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