You could use Scotch 88 then Scotchcote then another layer of 88. I did
that to "repair" (more like "replace"... they were really shot) the plastic
trap caps on an old HyGain tribander and it's still good after 10+ years.
However, for removable connection covers I would prefer 88 followed by
Scotch 23 (rubber splicing tape) and then another 88.
73 - JC, K0HPS
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com]On Behalf Of K7LXC@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:29 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com; WW5L@gte.net
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotor connector waterproofing?
In a message dated 8/10/2006 11:03:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
towertalk-request@contesting.com writes:
> I also use Scotch 88, but usually coat it with Scotchcote, which
supposedly forms such a vapor and water barrier that you could lay the
cable and connector underwater and not have water penetration.
Well, that's what it's designed for and it works great for buried
applications. Unfortunately it's very poor in UV (outdoor) environments and
dries
up and flakes off after a year or two. The same with Liquid Electrical
Tape.
Professional installers sometimes use clear acrylic spray paint as the
fourth and final layer on an outdoor coax connector. The first 3 layers are
tape, vapor wrap and another layer of tape.
Cheers,
Steve K7LXC
TOWER TECH -
Professional tower services for hams
Cell: 206-890-4188
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