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Re: [TowerTalk] sorry for multiple mails, but had another idea

To: <w9rma@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] sorry for multiple mails, but had another idea
From: Donald Hofmann <electroubleshooter@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 15:35:19 -0600
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Thanks for the response.
 
I live in north Texas about 70 miles north of Dallas. There is a strip of land 
from here to south of Dallas that is very unstable. We have clay and black 
gumbo that goes down as deep as 20'. In the hot Texas summers it drys and 
shrinks. Then when it rains, it swells and moves again. The foundation leveling 
companies love this area.
I could use an inverted top section of tower as you suggested and weld a 2 
5"16" trailer hitch ball onto it. I would then have to come up with some type 
of socket to bury in the concrete. Also welding would burn the galvanized 
finish off causing me to have to paint it every few years.
 
I also looked at just using Rohn's single pier pin but I think that if the 
concrete foundation shifts too much it will start causing the tower to move out 
of plumb ( because the steel base plate that the tower is mounted on will start 
to contact the concrete base on the high side). Hope that that makes sense! In 
other words the guys will be holding the tower plumb but the concrete will move 
and contact the bottom of the steel plate. This defeats the purpose of a 
floating pier pin.
(BTW my current tower installed in 1992 is out of plumb by an entire bubble on 
my torpedo level and this is at GROUND level. At the top it might be off 10 or 
more degrees.)
 
Also I don't much like the idea of just depending on guys to hold the tower up. 
If they fail the tower comes down. If I mount the steel base plate on three 
bolts at least it won't come down.
 
I plan on mounting the steel base a inch or more above the concrete so that I 
have plenty of room for adjustment. If need be I can "over engineer" it and use 
3/4" bolts.
 
You are right, Rohn sticks it too you. They are reasonable on the straight 
tower sections and give you the shaft on everything else.
 
73
 
Donald W5DWH



From: w9rma@charter.netTo: electroubleshooter@hotmail.comSubject: RE: 
[TowerTalk] sorry for multiple mails, but had another ideaDate: Sat, 13 Dec 
2008 15:13:03 -0600







Check out some used towers and see if you can get a tower with a ball mount on 
the bottom.  If you look at commercial
Towers many are mounted this way.  You might check with someone who who mounts 
towers commercially and see if they
Make such a unit.  You might call Rohn Tower and check with them.  Be careful 
about ordering  from Rohn they are 
Very expensive as a friend found out.  (12 bolts 46”,$595.00)  A thought went 
through my mind… I am wondering if one
Could weld a support collar on a over turned 25G top section and mount it on a 
ball mount….hmmmm have to think on 
That one for a while.  
 
Your idea about the plates would also work.  I like that idea.  I have a 100 
ft. self supported tower in the yard behind the 
House and it sits on 12 bolts and can be adjusted if the earth ever moved.  
What part of the world do you live that the
Earth moves?  Another way to keep the tower from tilting is to have a broad 
base  4 x4x4 or is it the soil in your area?
There you would have to ask a engineer about that for the weight of the tower 
plus concrete, cables etc.
Ron W9RMA
 
 




From: Donald Hofmann [mailto:electroubleshooter@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, 
December 13, 2008 14:16To: w9rma@charter.netCc: 
towertalk@contesting.comSubject: RE: [TowerTalk] sorry for multiple mails, but 
had another idea
 
Thanks for the response. Referring to my current leaning tower I have decided 
that I am better off starting from scratch v.s. trying to level the old one for 
several reasons. One, if I move it I can guy it at the correct distance from 
the tower and two, I can fix the out of plumb tower. So my next questions: If I 
put in a new tower I want the base to be adjustable for out of plumb 
problems.Any thoughts on how to do this?I am considering the 25GSSB self 
supporting base plate. I propose to sink three 5/8" galvanized bolts into a 
concrete foundation. I would then put a nut on each bolt then the base plate 
and then double nuts. The idea being that if the ground shifts, I could loosen 
the guys a little, then adjust the nuts until plumb and then retighten the 
nuts. Any comments or better ideas?Also what size concrete base for this 
installation? I can't find out what Rohn recommends for this base plate. 
Thanks> From: w9rma@charter.net> To: electroubleshooter@hotmail.com> Subject: 
RE: [TowerTalk] sorry for multiple mails, but had another idea> Date: Sat, 13 
Dec 2008 11:43:57 -0600> > Don:> First of all if you have a fifty foot tower 
you only have to be 80% for your> guy points that is if they go to the ground. 
If you move the guy points up> 4' that means can can come closer to the tower 
by a few points. Second I> used commercial garage coil spring rollers that had 
been taken out of> service and get thrown away.> I put them 4' in the ground 
cemented in with about a yard of concrete and> also fill the tube with cement. 
I well on tabs for the turnbuckles to> attach too.> > The towers which some are 
over 75' ft. have gone through tornados with winds> from> 90 - 110 mph and only 
the mast has bent. Poor choice of mast (water pipe)> Use a good mast such as 
moleychromium. Expensive but worth it in the long> run.> Ron W9RMA> > 
-----Original Message-----> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> 
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Donald Hofmann> Sent: 
Friday, December 12, 2008 18:40> To: 'jim Jarvis'> Cc: 
towertalk@contesting.com> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] sorry for multiple mails, 
but had another idea> > I was thinking that the top plate would act as a 
stabilizer to keep the> tower from twisting, similar to a "star" assembly.> > > 
-----Original Message-----> From: jim Jarvis [mailto:jimjarvis@optonline.net] > 
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 6:13 PM> To: Donald Hofmann> Subject: sorry for 
multiple mails, but had another idea> > > You know, for guy attachment, you can 
just form a loop and drop it over> a > tower leg, as you erect things? You may 
WANT the flat top, as a place> to> stand--but you don't need it for guy 
attachment.> > sorry for the fragmented responses, but I've been juggling 
waaaay too> many> balls here, this week. > > n2ea> > > Jim Jarvis, MBA> 
President - Executive Coach> The Morse Group, LLC> 732 548 5573 office 908 410 
9130 cell> www.themorsegroup.net> > People-Process-Strategy: Achieving Results 
in a Changing World> > > No virus found in this incoming message.> Checked by 
AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.16/1843 - 
Release Date: 12/12/2008> 9:02 AM> > 
_______________________________________________> > > > 
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