I just recently tried this mix...NAPA engine parts cleaner and 3M medium
foam sanding pad. Its like wet sanding with an agent that melts the
oxidation or at least loosens it and then the pad breaks it loose and
polishes the aluminum. Very little effort required to clean off the gunk
that has accumulated for years of exposure.
Good Luck,
dave
wa3gin
----- Original Message -----
From: <k3hx@juno.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 6:23 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Aluminum scoring
> OM,
>
> I use abrasive sponges from Harbor Freight. Use them dry as the adhesive
> used to hold the grits onto the sponge is pretty weak.
>
> While you are wandering around the Harbor Freight store or going through
> their catalog you may note a 1/2" wide belt sander. Thing is a piece of
> junk.
>
> Also, I've used "Scotchbrite" abrasive discs such as you might find at an
> auto supply store that caters to body shops. Tell the counter person what
> you want to do and they can recommend the proper grade of abrasive disc.
>
> As for the inside of the joining tube, I have used a sandpaper "flap
> wheel" on a long extention. Or, you could ask the folks at the auto store
> for a cylinder hone. The catch is that the cylinder hone will be pretty
> expensive. Many auto parts stores have a machine shop attendant to them,
> perhaps they have a used cylinder hone they can let go for cheap.
>
> I'm not a fan of using steel wool as the little threads can become
> embedded in the aluminum.
>
> To prevent future trouble getting things apart, I clean the smooth surface
> with 91% isopropyl alcohol and then apply a coat of ordinary automotive
> polish and then some anti-seize.
>
> 72,
>
> Tim
>
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