On 1/19/2012 3:18 PM, John Hudson wrote:
> Chris it's always been a backup plan, even with the old tower, to use a
> backstay. What I'm think now is using a 4" I-beam approx. 4-5' in length.
> Dig a hole 6" deeper so it will be recessed. Attach a HD shackle to the
I'd just bore a hole through the I-beam in such a position that I could
easily install a clevis. Thoroughly corrosion proof it and then bury it.
The just remove the sod over it for access and attach a clevis that you
know is still in good shape.
> I-beam and cover it until I need to use it. Use a chain and HD chain binder.
> I thought about the screw anchor but only ones I've seen the eyes were not
> solid and I would be afraid it would pull apart..
Look at the ones from the power company. The entire rod with eye is
forged. The screw plate is welded on and made of steel plate about a
1/4" thick which is then galvanized. These are big and heavy. Probably
a 2 (or more) man crew to screw in, unless you can find a driver to
rent. Of course this depending on your soil being heavy enough to hold
the anchor and not be filled with rocks. In my yard I've dug numerous
holes up to 6 feet deep and never found a stone over a half inch in
diameter and that was fairly close to the house so it may have come out
of the hole for the basement. This was once an ancient beach, and
before that under a lot of water and some where in there it was covered
with ice about 2 miles deep.
> now I have not researched
> the communication type screw anchors but will probably go the heavy duty
> route and use the I-beam
The screw anchor will offer more resistance to pulling out, but you can
weld side plates to the I bean and put horizontal plates under then or
the ultimate, but that would mean a larger hole. The I-beam will offer
little resistance in the vertical plane, but about the same horizontally
as a pipe of that diameter.
A friend was having trouble with his guy anchors moving as his yard is
plain sand down at least 6 or 8 feet. (I think it's about 20 feet) I
suggested the side plates, but in his case they stick out about a foot
on each side with reinforcing. Since then his anchors have been rock solid.
73
Roger (K8RI)
> John
> KO4XJ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of EZ
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 10:54 AM
> To: Eugene Jensen; towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] 2nd Rotor Shelf TX-455
>
> John,'
>
> Using your truck as a dead man is a good idea, smart on your part. I wonder
> if you can bury a dead man anchor several feet from your raising fixture
> sqaure tube, and connect it with a good size cable/turnbuckle? (I think this
>
> is called a back stay). It could even be made to be "hookup-able" when
> needed, leaving the cable off most of the time so it doesn't get in the way
> of the lawnmower, kids, XYL, etc.
>
> Chris
> KF7P
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eugene Jensen"<eugenejensen@nyc.rr.com>
> To:<towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 9:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] 2nd Rotor Shelf TX-455
>
>
>> So the problem is in your home brewed raising fixture is blowing out.
>> There
>> are a huge strain on the tower bring raised or lowered about mid-way. I
>> change the Fulton 1550 it came from the factory and installed a Thern
>> winch
>> that I drive with a 1/2 Milwaukee Hole Shooter because it was a real
>> workout
>> to use. It your Antenna& Tower, but maybe it time to eat the bullet so
>> to
>> speak and buy the factory fixture before you lose it all. Just a thought.
>> NN4ZZ tilt plate is a fairly heavy device by itself. I built one based off
>> his published one for the hams and he a real gentleman so to speak. Mine
>> cost me $300.00 more than to buy his and pain to find parts. So trying
>> to
>> save money in this cost me. Learn and live. The best to you and project.
>> 73
>> Gene K2QWD
>>
>>
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