On 9/1/2014 3:46 PM, n8de@thepoint.net wrote:
A pier pin base is relatively simple structurally and could be made by
most metal shops for a fraction, but you'd still need to have it
Galvanized. As a note, I believe the insulators available are made of
Delrin. An insulator on each leg to the pier pin base plate might be a
more stable arrangement.
Fiberglass is hard on tools and you really should wear one of the
plastic suits when working on it with machine tools. Not many do, but
the fine fibers get into clothes and you leave a trail of the fine
fibers after you.
Fiberglass needs to be coated to protect it from moisture and UV as bare
fiberglass does not stand up well to moisture, or UV. 6 years of
building an advanced composite airplane taught me that..
73
Roger (K8RI)
All the materials you list are SOFT and will not be structurally sound
under load.
I prefer to use fiberglass rod, cut and drilled, to insert in the
bottom legs and base. Depending on the diameter needed, there are
fiberglass fence posts available at most farm implement dealers. WEAR
gloves when handling and wear a MASK when drilling fiberglass.
You might see the insulators I have used on my FREE-STANDING 80m
vertical tower antennas at: www.qrz.com/n8de
73
Don
N8DE
Quoting Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>:
Gordon,
I couldn't find a drawing of the Rohn 25TG pier pin base section, but
Rohn makes an insulator A4197L for the 25TGIA section per catalog, no
drawing for it either. My idea is to use a plastic (nylon, black
UHMW, delrin) block bolted to the pier pin end plate with a hole for
the pier pin, removing the center of the plate on the tower section for
adequate electrical clearance. The block could be 4" diameter rod say
3" long grooved for more path.
I also think a fiberglass solid rod would be strong enough as a pier
pin if upsized over the stock R25 3/4" steel one. Then there is no
concern about dirt etc. causing a path to the tower on the insulator.
Or a 2" od section of the insulator could go thru the plate a couple of
inches on steel pin. Of course this all depends on what the base plate
of the pier pin section looks like. The insulator pin hole should have
enough clearance for a couple of degrees of tower tilt.
However, my drawing search turned up that the 25TG section lists for
$1399, which pretty much trashes this idea!
So, having made several hinged bases for 25 plain sections, for around
70' of R25, I'd be tempted to use a 1/4" thick steel plate with a 2"
hole in the center and weld three leg stubs cross drilled for the bolts
and then use the foregoing 4" diameter insulator block bolted to it.
I bolt the stubs in a section and tack weld them to the plate to get
everything aligned before final welding. I've used 3/4" sch 40 black
(gas) pipe for R25 stubs but a sloppy fit and also made them from solid
HRS rod turned to tight fit. In this application I think either are
ok, since the idea of a pier pin base is too eliminate the bending
stresses at the base.
YMMV, this is backyard engineering judgement.
Maybe Chris KF7P might take this on as something he makes as a product.
kf7p.com
Grant KZ1W
On 9/1/2014 9:47 AM, J. Gordon Beattie, Jr., W2TTT wrote:
Grant,
So insulating a standard pier pin base is your suggestion?
How might I do that? I'm thinking that sandwiching an insulator
underneath
the base plate and isolating the pier pin from the base plate is the
approach you are suggesting. Am I right?
Do you or other have some photos or diagrams?
73,
Gordon, W2TTT
201.314.6964
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf
Of Grant
Saviers
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2014 3:13 PM
To: J. Gordon Beattie, Jr., W2TTT
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: tower insulators
The max wind combined guy loads for a 100' tower can be around 4000#
downforce on the tower base (plus the tower weight) so something
more than
1" delrin will be required between the legs. That amount of force
obviously
works ok with the tapered pier pin base, but the leg span of
straight R25 or
larger will require some steel structure behind whatever insulator
is used.
I think modifying a tapered pier pin base section bottom plate for an
insulator block of delrin/nylon would be easier/cheaper.
Grant KZ1W
On 9/1/2014 7:29 AM, J. Gordon Beattie, Jr., W2TTT wrote:
Bob, Steve et al,
Any thoughts on what might be a good approach to insulating a Rohn 25
tower from the ground?
I was thinking of a pin base in a lower slab of nylon or delrin
insulating material sandwiched with another upper slab of insulating
material that has bolts into the tower legs. These could be bolted
together at the corners.
When I say, "slab" I am thinking about 0.5-1.0 inches in thickness.
My concerns are that the might be stronger and possibly cheaper. Any
thoughts?
73,
Gordon, W2TTT
201.314.6964
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
Bob Naumann W5OV
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2014 2:33 AM
To: Steve Maki
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com; 'Bob Naumann W5OV'
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] tower insulators
The insulators that you found through an obsolete link are no longer
available.
Sorry!
Bob W5OV
Array Solutions
On Fri, August 29, 2014 9:16 pm, Steve Maki wrote:
John,
Thinking about it, of course I've been thinking about it for a few
years now :)
Yes, I saw the Array Solutions solution, and WB0W's, both of which
look viable. I only tried contacting them via their web page contact
gadgets which aren't always monitored by online stores.
I'll try a direct email, thanks.
-Steve K8LX
On 8/28/2014 9:45 PM, john@kk9a.com wrote:
Are you getting back into contesting Steve? What about these?
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/towerinsulators.htm
Try emailing W5OV, BonN@arraysolutions.com
From: Steve Maki <lists@oakcom.org>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 18:24:33 -0400
Does anyone know if there is a currently available commercial leg
insulator for Rohn 45 tower? I've seen reference to products from
Array Solutions and WB0W, but didn't get replies to my inquires, and
I'm guessing they were/are not big sellers.
I can fab them myself from fiberglass rod and protect them with an
umbrella of some sort, but would rather save the time with an off
the shelf product.
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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