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Re: [TowerTalk] Silver Solder

To: Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Silver Solder
From: Paul Christensen <w9ac@arrl.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2015 13:07:51 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Use approved grounding clamps and conductor size to satisfy local code and NEC. 
 Then augment the system with silver-soldered connections.  

Paul, W9AC

Sent from my iPhone6

> On Aug 7, 2015, at 12:51 PM, Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
>> On 8/7/15 9:24 AM, mike stokes wrote:
>> Hello
>> 
>> I need to improve my radials and lightning protection.  What Silver Solder
>> is best for the job and where is a good place to purchase it ?
> 
> I'm not sure silver solder (called silver brazing these days) would be 
> appropriate for lightning protection.  It's certainly not what the code 
> requires for grounding (approved clamps or exothermic welds), although I 
> think it's a reasonably workable solution.
> 
> For RF purposes (e.g. your ground radials), though, silver brazing isn't a 
> bad idea. It's rugged, it's easy (assuming you have the right equipment).
> 
> I doubt that the specific alloy makes a lot of difference. What you're really 
> looking for is that the melting point is higher than that of tin/lead, and 
> that it's mechanically more rugged. I've used a variety of "hard solders" 
> from the local hardware store. Typically, they are around half silver (price 
> varies with silver content). Pretty much anything will work with copper/brass 
> (if you're brazing steel, you need to be a bit more careful in material 
> selection).  A typical alloy is something like Silvaloy 355 which is about 
> half silver, 1/5th copper, and the rest zinc and tin.  No cadmium. At least 
> that's what I found out in the garage that still has a label on it.. I'm not 
> a pro welder, with ovens to keep my rods dry, records of material certs, 
> etc.. Others on this list ARE much more knowledgeable and may have some 
> recommendations on the best alloys.
> 
> As with all "melt metal to stick metal together" things, the right flux and 
> the right heat source is probably more important than the actual metal you're 
> melting.
> 
> I use the solid white paste flux, and I've used both a oxy-mapp rig (one of 
> the ones with the two "propane torch" sized bottles) and a oxy-acetylene rig 
> (with a fine tip on the torch).  Either works. The bigger rig (with big 
> bottles, either oxy mapp or oxy acetylene) is nicer because you don't worry 
> about running out of gas. If you could borrow or rent the rig, life is easy.
> 
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