I much prefer the sealer to be stuck to the connector. As for the glue
from the heat shrink tubing. Make a linear cut in the tube and then let
the connector get cold. The hot melt glue will then, generally break
off the connector leaving it look like new. If the connector is warm,
much of the glue will stick. I don't know if that works with the self
vulcanizing tape, or coax seal.
73
Roger (K8RI)
On 5/13/2016 Friday 10:03 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
Roger,
I agree 100%. PL-259's are not designed to be a weather proof, water
tight connector. We definitely should
weather proof them. Even N connectors, with their sealed design, I
weather proof them too. Ask me why :-)
I read a step suggested by one ham to insure there is no residue when
they are taken down. He first wraps the
connected joint with scotch electrical tape stretching it as it is
applied. He puts on the tape with the sticky side
out. Then proceeds with layers of self vulcanizing tape or whatever
is preferred after that over the connection.
When the connection is cut open down the road it is shiny clean.
Sounds like a good idea.
Bob
K6UJ
On 5/13/16 6:31 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
I'm miles from water, but the air or rain eats solder like candy
around here. Even with 3 coats of clear Krylon, the solder
connections on my C3i antennas dissolve every few years.
OTOH Why would any connector used out doors fail faster than inside.
Doesn't everyone weather proof them? I either go the flooded heat
shrink, self vulcanizing tape, or coax seal. I can't imagine any
connector not protected outdoors.
Regardless of type, mine look like new when I take them down, unless
they were hit by lightning,
Of course, they may have some glue, tape, or coax seal stuck to them,
but they are well protected..
73
Roger (K8RI)
On 5/13/2016 Friday 2:40 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
"I use them outside as well as inside and have never had a problem."
Near salt air? Here along the eastern coast, salt air affects crimped
connectivity over time unless Coax Seal or a variant is used. The
problem
is never the center conductor, but with the braided portion of the
crimp.
When soldered, it's never an issue.
Paul, W9AC
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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