Good ideas Jim. I've used drip loops for so long, I forgot that there
are a lot of new hams that might not be familiar with them. Drip loops
are one of the simplest and effective steps to weatherproofing. Thanks
for reminding me.
73
Roger (K8RI)
On 5/14/2016 Saturday 10:38 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 03:15:20 -0400
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL259 Cobbectors Part 2 - Murray W9EHQ
I much prefer the sealer to be stuck to the connector. As for the glue
from the heat shrink tubing. Make a linear cut in the tube and then let
the connector get cold. The hot melt glue will then, generally break
off the connector leaving it look like new. If the connector is warm,
much of the glue will stick. I don't know if that works with the self
vulcanizing tape, or coax seal.
73
Roger (K8RI)
## Put some DC-4 /5 onto the threads 1st...+ a tiny bit onto the center pin.
Then crank it up good and tight. Put a rag onto the connector 1st, b4 putting
any water pump pliers etc on, then the wrap of rag protects the connector.
Ok, once tight, toss the rag and pliers...and then wrap the connector and a
portion of the
coax outer jacket, with 88 tape, sticky side towards the connector. Then
slide your
heat shrink over top of that, use the heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the
inside ribs,
like is typ of T+B brand heat shrink. Then wrap more 88 tape on top of the
heat
shrink, so it covers both the heat shrink and a portion of the coax outer black
sheath.
The connection wont get water into it.
## If at all possible, use a drip loop to stop water pooling into connectors.
Water wont run
uphill.
Jim VE7RF
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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