I agree with Steve. The jumpy meter is probably the rotors internal pot
wearing out. It will just get worse. I would replace it. You could clean the
connector strip and replace the screws but removing the connector strip and
putting in a grommet and an in line connector as Steve mentioned is a better
way to go.
Where do you stop on this hihi. As long as you have taken the rotor shell
apart to replace the positioning pot you might as well put in new ball bearings
and grease before reassembling.
I have overhauled the Ham-II’s and the Tailtwisters, they have basically the
same process. Easy to do. There are videos on line to show how its done.
For the parts, rotor repair places like Norm’s Rotors on line are good
resources for parts. Also MFJ on line has the parts. The parts are pretty
cheap.
Good luck !
Bob
K6UJ
> On Mar 22, 2019, at 11:22 AM, Steven Katz <stevek@jmr.com> wrote:
>
> Most would just eliminate the terminal strip and install a cover plate with a
> hole and grommet to bring out a cable with a detachable connector, like the
> "rotator reconditioning" guys do. But whatever works.
>
> If the meter needle is jumpy, I'd think that's because the rotator's internal
> 500 Ohm positioning indicator potentiometer is worn out and needs
> replacement. Those are available.
>
> I've rebuilt or reconditioned several of these rotators over the decades.
> The HAM-II is really old.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> On Behalf Of David Huff
> Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 11:03 AM
> To: TowerTalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] old rotor contacts repair question
>
> I have just acquired an old CDE / Ham II rotor and now I am reconditioning
> it. I have 2 questions.
>
>
> 1. The previous owner used steel screws or washers on the rotor electrical
> screw terminals, which means I need to remove the rust. My plan is to
> replace with brass or stainless screws and washers. It rotates, and the
> meter needle moves, but is jumpy, probably because of the rusty terminals.
> What do you recommend for a good cleaner to get the electrical pads clean
> again.
> 2. Is there something I can cover the screw terminals with to prevent the
> water from getting in and creating problems in the future?
>
> Thanks,
> David
> W0IM
>
>
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