Ed,
As an FYI, the rotor has a magnet on the end of its motor shaft. During
each rotation, this magnet actives a reed switch in the rotor which
causes pulses to be delivered to the controller. Counting the pulses is
how the rotor keeps track of position. A common point of failure of the
Orion is the reed switch. There are also two microswitches that act as
limit switches. These are also a common point of failure. The reed
switch can be damaged by a lightning induced current surge. The limit
switches are less likely to have a lighting problem but there are other
issues that will cause problems. Older rotors may have limit switch
issues caused by the 1/4" bolt on top of the motor shaft loosing and
allowing the shaft to drop slightly which may cause a large internal
gear to drag against the switches making them intermittent.
Don't ask how I know all this : )
BTW, I also know the GH controller is far superior to the M2 controller,
mainly because it does a vastly superior job of pulse counting.
Les W2LK
On 7/19/2020 1:02 PM, Edward stallman wrote:
Thanks to all that replied on and off list . A Friend that lives close
called telling me, he has a new RC-2800-P controller that I could use
to do my testing ..
Ed N5DG
On 7/19/2020 11:32 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 10:32:55 -0500
From: Edward stallman <ed.n5dg@gmail.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Problem with M2 Orion controller
<Had a car hit a power pole , this created mutable rapid power surges .
<My RC-2800P-A controller has not worked properly since . Before
buying a
<Green Heron controller I need to be sure the pulse counter in the rotor
<is still good.
<The first time I turned the controller on after the surge , the rotor
<started turning immediately as soon as I pressed the (CW) went to (L
<346.0 ) Limit .? Pushing the CW / CCW does nothing . Using one of the
<ten presets , I used the 30 degree , the rotor turned 30 deg and
counted
<on the controller from the (L_346.0) limit , now reading 16 deg ...
What
<ever preset I use , the rotor turns that much from say 16deg . Pressing
<and holding the MODE up arrow in hope to program the numbers only makes
<the 16 deg jump back to (L_346.0)? .
<I checked the MOV across 5 and 6 ,? and I also have the 11.3 VDC across
<5 and 6
<If I'm counting numbers while using the presets , would you think the
<pulse counter at the rotor is good ? Is their a way to test the pulse
<counter using the 2 leads in the shack ?
<Not trying to repair the Orion controller but hoping the Green Heron
<will work if I buy one
<Thanks Ed N5DG
## Which version of the M2 controller, do you have ? The latest
version
is called a RC2800PXAZ..and uses a switching supply...good from
88-264 vac.
## Does your controller have a MOV on the 120 vac input ? Mine
doesnt,
thats most of your problem right there. The 130 vac rated mov can
installed inside
the controller, between hot 120 leg...and chassis. For the price
of the controller box,
you would have thought they woulda spent the extra 1 dollar, to
install a HD MOV
across the incoming 120 vac.
## Ideally, you want MOVS right at the main 200A entrance panel.
Typ they will use
a 2 pole breaker installed into a spare slot in main panel.... then
cabled over to commercial
MOV box. MOV box will consist of 2 x 130 Vac MOVS, one from
each hot leg..to neutral.
## Then, everything in the home is protected. Otherwise, you could
easily get a repeat performance.
make sure the GH box has a MOV across the incoming 120 vac line too.
Jim VE7RF
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