I saw no responses and was hoping to learn something about the subject.
I bought a bearing from Tashjian and it is a 2-hole flange, all steel.
Ready to rust from the get go and needed some paint to try to slow it down.
I lost a seal in mine and not sure why it started to come out but it did
during a 'coax around the mast' event I suffered due to a rotor shaft
snapping off. I iam just using it until I can find a way to easily replace
it, which is not a likely scenario.
My bearing is 2.5 years young in a salty coastal location.
Al N6TA
On Sat, May 24, 2025 at 9:12 AM <towertalk-request@contesting.com> wrote:
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> 1. replacement top plate bearing (John Keating)
>
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> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: John Keating <john.keating@outlook.com>
> To: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 May 2025 01:18:32 +0000
> Subject: [TowerTalk] replacement top plate bearing
> I need to replace the rusted out bearing on the top plate of a tower. I
> see many flanged bearings listed by the usual online retail sources as well
> as direct from bearing manufacturers that are priced less than those with
> tower name brands. Are there any particularly critical design features -
> e.g., eccentric vs concentric vs standard set screw collar; iron vs
> aluminum flange; double vs triple seal? And at what point should one use a
> bearing that takes the vertical load in addition to lateral rotational
> force?
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