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Re: [Amps] Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11 LMR400

To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11 LMR400
From: "qrv@kd4e.com" <qrv@kd4e.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 10:49:42 -0400
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Wow, nice stuff!

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1484

I'm at a bit of a distance in SE-GA.

Thanks,

David, KD4E

How long of a run?

Bite the bullet... Andrew / Comscope LDF4-50. Lasts forever!  If you live near Springfield MO, I have a BUNCH of it, and LDF7-AVA7.



Thanks
73
Jim W7RY

On 4/8/2021 9:27 PM, qrv@kd4e.com wrote:
Why not the Belden 9913F7, for VHF, please?

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=342_345_515_544&products_id=1752

It looks to be about the same loss, more flexible, and about the same price as the LMR400.

The RG-213 has a VOC of 66% vs 84%, the 213 is higher loss (even on 6m), 89% shield, and a smaller center conductor.

is there a fair argument to have all cables rated for VHF performance - in case you have to switch cables in a hurry?

Just asking ... I've always just used what I had on-hand, or could afford cheap, but am now trying to upgrade it all.

Thanks,

David KD4E


I agree with you Jim on LMR400. I don't like how when I cut off a piece that has been outside, there is white dry corrosion inside of the jacket.

I got a bunch of 100' pieces from a project that were un-used so I tried it. Always used type N and UHF connectors for the braid though.


Thanks
73
Jim W7RY

On 4/8/2021 4:18 PM, Jim Garland wrote:
I agree completely with Frank about the virtues of the DXE-PL259CS8U “Next Generation” UHF PL259 connectors. (Actually, I pretty much always agree with Frank, whatever the topic.) One thing I especially like about these connectors, aside from their ease of installation, strength, and adaptability to all RG8 style coax cables, is how easily they thread onto a female mating connector without cross threading. They are about as foolproof as one can imagine, and I find myself cutting the ends off good jumper cables and replacing their old style PL259s with these new ones just to avoid future problems. I think the ability to solder the center pin and only crimp the braid is a real plus.

On a related topic, I’ve stopped using LMR400 and LMR400UF coax completely for HF work, using instead trusty, old-time RG-213, with its untinned copper braid. I find the aluminum foil in LMR cables unneeded and time-consuming to work with, and the source of failures when mechanically flexed. Soldering to the foil is near impossible, especially when I find myself belted into a tower!
73,
Jim W8ZR

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: donovanf@erols.com
Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 1:58 PM
To: 160
Subject: Re: Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11

The DX Engineering DXE-PL259CS8U-12 crimp coax connector
with solder center center pin should work perfectly on RG-11.


I fold back the RG-11 center conductor about 1/4 inch to provide
more surface area for soldering


73
Frank
W3LPL


----- Original Message -----

From: "Rick Kunath via Topband" <topband@contesting.com>
To: "Raymond Benny" <rayn6vr@gmail.com>, "160" <topband@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 7:39:36 PM
Subject: Re: Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11

DX Engineering has some that would work I think. It's a crimp on the
shield and a soldered center pin.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-pl259cs8u-12

Not sure if that would work for your application? I suspect that the
larger sized center pin needed for 50 ohms would make a crimp to the
center pin problematic on 75 ohm cable in a 50- ohm connector.

I've never used these connectors before but I might now that I see them.

Any cables I make up with PL-259 connectors i have been soldering both
the shield and the center pin. On the shield end I strip the jacket and flux and tin the braid. Then I measure for center pin length, and use a tubing cutter to cut the tinned shield to the right dimension, clean the cut edge to remove any bits of metal and screw on the PL-259. After that
I remove the tip of a Weller 125 watt soldering gun and after fluxing
the 4 solder holes in the PL-259 I bridge the connector across the
soldering gun ends where the tip usually goes. The connector becomes the tip, heats up quickly and a quick application of solder and its soldered
all around. I let it cool before moving it and then quickly solder the
center pin and trim it.

I've had good luck doing that over the years (so far).

For N connectors it's always a shield crimp but I solder the center pin on.

Rick Kunath, K9AO


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