Hi Gary
For years we have a Linksys router 50ft up a tower with a container stuck
(Tupperware Cereal container) over top of it and no bottom. We kept it
wide open.
It has been like that for over 10 years and humming right along. It has
seen from plus +40C to -40C.
Our key plan was to make sure it was kept dry and allow it to dry out if
it got wet. Fresh water is normally not an issue. Air flow is key.
Stagnant water is a problem.
Mike va3mw
On Tue, Sep 27, 2016 at 11:25 AM, Gary Smith <Gary@ka1j.com> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Hopefully I replied to everyone who sent
> me such great ideas about waterproofing
> the Tupperware box. Many expressed
> concerns about UV damage to the plastic
> over time and many suggested drain holes
> that were covered in different ways to
> protect from insects getting in.
>
> I've got an old stainless steel sieve that
> has a tear around the top. This is a
> perfect time to cut that into a patch that
> I will glue onto 1/2" holes in each corner
> to allow for ventilation and keep the bugs
> out. I've got some pieces of 3M pad that
> I'm going to use to plug the holes where
> the coax enters and leaves the box.
> Between those holes at the bottom and the
> air the can get past the 3M pad material,
> condensation should not occur and bugs
> should be kept at bay.
>
> It's a little different topic but the one
> thing I can offer to the group on this has
> to do with the PVC covers that I have over
> the amplifiers at the base of each one of
> the antennas. I want to keep mice out of
> there because I know that they'll just
> chew right into the wiring so a good hint
> to keep mice out of anything you want to
> protect is to use bounce sheets, the
> fabric softener stuff. Mice hate the smell
> of that and some friends with antique
> vehicles put bounce strips under the seats
> of their vehicles and feel safe that there
> are no mouse nests to be found along the
> way. So I stuffed a sheet up inside of
> each one of those PVC containers. Don't
> think it repels bugs though.
>
> Thank you all for the help I appreciate
> it.
>
> 73,
>
> Gary
> KA1J
>
>
> > Rather than invent a poorly designed
> > wheel, maybe someone here has already
> > successfully worked out a better solution
> > to waterproofing.
> >
> > I am using a Sterilite 25" x 18" x 8"
> > container with secure snap on fasteners on
> > each side of the lid to house the outdoor
> > electronics for the 8 circle array. The
> > lid fits wonderfully and there is a 1" rim
> > that comes down from the lid to secure the
> > contents from exposure to rain.
> >
> > I have drilled the holes for each coax (9
> > in all) and cut a slot for the control
> > wire. I'm planning on wrapping each coax &
> > the control cable with plastic from a
> > plastic bag to make the coax snug to the
> > hole and then gorilla taping that to the
> > side of the container on each side.
> >
> > Any ideas to improve this?
> >
> > Another option I've thought of to seal the
> > openings is to use expansion foam to seal
> > the holes. My concern is that is that I've
> > never used this foam before and don't know
> > how easy it is to remove it from the coax
> > should I ever need to. Seems like it would
> > make a great seal.
> >
> > Any caveats using the foam instead of the
> > plastic bag & gorilla tape?
> >
> > Another consideration is drainage; the
> > container will be placed on a large
> > boulder to keep it above rising salt
> > water, should there be any from a
> > storm/hurricane.
> >
> > I don't want to make access holes for
> > insects but I need to keep it dry inside.
> > Once the holes are sealed there isn't much
> > access for water getting in. Murphy being
> > a McGuiver, should I drill a couple small
> > holes in the bottom for drainage or should
> > I leave it as is and not provide for
> > drainage?
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Gary
> > KA1J
>
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