Towertalk
[Top] [All Lists]

[TowerTalk] Fwd: BOUNCE towertalk@contesting.com: global taboo header: /

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Fwd: BOUNCE towertalk@contesting.com: global taboo header: /^cc:\s*.+/i
From: UpTheTower@aol.com (UpTheTower@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:12:39 -0500 (EST)
In a message dated 97-03-09 23:28:20 EST, owner-towertalk@contesting.com
writes:

> Hi Dave,
>  
>  I have a heavy duty AB-105 tower, not the regular duty one you have, but
>  am familiar with it.
>  
>  First of all, I agree with your approach to issue #1.  Although, an
>  alternative would be to build new guy sets (to replace your 20 year-old
>  ones) and attach them at:
>  37, 77, 117.  The 77 would be done last, replacing them one at a time.
>  (Abandon, in place, the existing guy attachment plates at 47 and 107.)
>  
>  If you consider the alternative described above, or not, you might think
>  of replacement with fiberglass guys. I can elaborate further if you
>  like, but, K3MM, W3LPL, W3EA, N3RR (I) and others have used these
>  successfully. In fact, K3MM recently posted some fiberglass guy rod for
>  sale.
>  
>  As far as issue #2, if you can remove one-half of the dual guy
>  attachment plate at a splice, I do not believe that the leg will move. 
>  To be certain, tighten the other guy attachment/splice plate combination
>  fully before loosening the opposite side bolt/nuts.  Loosen them and
>  remove the bolts one at a time and try to swivel the guy attachment
>  plate away from the leg before you have removed the last of the three
>  bolts holding the guy/splice plates together (while the opposite side
>  guy/splice plate still has its bolts/nuts tight).  That way, once it's
>  swiveled away, re-insert one bolt/nut to keep the leg in place while you
>  remove the last of the three bolts, remove the old guy attachment plate,
>  install the new guy attachment plate, re-insert one bolt, swivel, etc,
>  etc....  Similarly, install the new guy attachment plates at 117 and 37.
>  
>  Before you do any of the above, verify that the shackle (you called this
>  "clevis") that will pass through the guy attachment plate will actually
>  pass through the combination of the two attachment plates while in the
>  same angle in which they will be installed on the tower!!!  I had to
>  ream the holes out of mine WHILE ON THE TOWER when the shackle bolt
>  would not fit!!! (Even though I tested this on the ground before trying
>  it on the tower.)
>  
>  Speaking of that, if you have enough "meat" left on the existing guy
>  attachment plates, why not consider reaming them out on the tower once
>  the existing guy is removed??  Then strip and paint and install the new
>  guy...this would eliminate issue#2.
>  
>  I would also recommend having the new plates galvanized if they are not
>  already.
>  
>  Also, referring to my suggestion of repositioning the guys to 117 ft. 
>  The closer you have the guys to the top of the tower, the less moment
>  you will have above the guys.  Frank, W3LPL, recently described his
>  situation with the tops of the towers above his top guy set.
>  
>  That's all I can think of for now.  Good luck with it.
>  
>  73!
>  
>  Bill, N3RR
>  
>  


---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:   owner-towertalk@contesting.com
To:     owner-towertalk@contesting.com
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Date: 97-03-09 23:28:20 EST

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>