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Re: [TowerTalk] Questions about Irrigation Pipe for Verticals

To: TowerTalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Questions about Irrigation Pipe for Verticals
From: Red <RedHaines@centurytel.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2006 19:46:09 -0600
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
I built a few telescoping verticals with one section each of 3" and 2" 
irrigation pipe.  I made aluminum bushings to fit the 2" inside the 3" 
and permit them to telescope for transport and to adjust length.  One 
bushing at the top of the 3" section fits the ID of the 3" and is 
fastened with machine screws.  The ID of that bushing is slightly larger 
than the OD of the 2" pipe.  The other bushing, at the bottom of the 2" 
pipe, fits the OD of that pipe and is fastened to it.  The OD of that 
bushing is a sliding fit inside the 3" pipe.

The objective was to telescope the sections, but using the 2" pipe on 
top also reduces the wind load on the top portion.

A clamp made of 2" PVC, slit in 4 places with a hacksaw, clamps, with 
hose clamps, over the 2" pipe to hold it in the extended position.  I 
always left 1' to 1.5' minimum overlap of the sections.

To make a 1/4 wavelength on 80 meters, with two 30' lengths of 
irrigation pipe, I added a length of 1" aluminum tubing at the top of 
the 2' pipe; I just bolted it to the OD of the 2" pipe.

For field day or other portable use, I modified some tripods to clamp 
short sections of 3" PVC pipe, with slits for clamping, with hose 
clamps, to the 3" pipe.  I fastened the tripods to simple frames of 
square aluminum tubing.  I can raise 41' easily by myself for a 20 meter 
5/8.  I need one or two persons to hold the base of a 65' mast to the 
ground while I walk it upright.  For field day or portable use, I put 4 
nylon guys at the joint between the 2" and 3" sections.

I have sheets of perforated aluminum about 4' square under the tripods, 
with radials bolted to the aluminum sheets with SS hardware to preclude 
copper to aluminum contact.  The antennas perform well with just the 
aluminum sheets, but I usually add 16 or more radials.  I put 2 or 3 
radials into one crimp-on lug to put then on one bolt quickly.

A 5/8 wavelength 20 meter vertical with radials works well for field 
day!  It is often necessary to use the attenuator at the rig to prevent 
overloading the receiver when bands are crowded.

I never implemented any proper connection between the feedline and the 
aluminum mast, because my first hurried approach worked well for FD.  
That first year, I ran short of time and just soldered  leads to sheets 
of copper and clamped those with hose clamps to the aluminum pipe.  As 
expected, corrosion developed rapidly.  Then, I coated the copper with 
one of the copper to aluminum contact compounds and corrosion never 
developed even when I left them clamped together for many weeks.  Still, 
it would be better to clamp the copper over a SS shim to prevent copper 
to aluminum contact, with appropriate compound in each interface.  There 
are other, better ways to make the connection, but I didn't pursue them 
when this worked well for portable purposes.

I put one of these up at the home shack as an experiment, with 4 guys at 
the 30' level.  It buckled below the guys in a storm one night.  I don't 
recall the spacing from the guy anchors to the antenna.  It was 
moderately generous, but, obviously, not sufficient to prevent a slender 
column failure.

The 0.050" wall irrigation pipe is not strong enough to withstand wind 
without guys, even calculated with a very generous 30,000 psi yield 
strength.  Of course, once it yields, it buckles and folds over.  3" 
irrigation pipe is available with thicker walls, but it is not high 
strength, seamless tubing.  I don't recommend it for anything other than 
portable antennas at 30 feet or above.

73 de WOØW
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