It seems to me that one can buy a crimp tool and completely avoid the PL-259
soldering issue. Is crimping to be shunned in favor of soldering? If so, why?
Steve K8JQ
---- Tim Duffy K3LR <k3lr@k3lr.com> wrote:
> I have hundreds of silver plated PL-259s in service at my station. They are
> all
> soldered the same way. It is different from what almost everyone else does.
> Good soldered shields are very important to me.
>
> I was never sure my shields were well soldered or had melted the dielectric
> before using this method (before 1982).
>
> Bill, N4AR taught me how to do this and I have been doing this "unconventional
> method" ever since.
>
> Using silver plated PL259s makes this system a breeze. I use the ones that say
> "Made in USA" on the shell.
> I will try to describe the method. I need to post some pictures on my web
> site.
>
> Take a fully assembled (shell + body) connector.
> Measure the connector against the RG8 (or similar) coax.
> Take the outer covering of the coax off with a sharp knife.
> Pull the braid back all the way by fanning it out.
> Wrap 3 to 4 turns of Scotch 88 black tape around the center conductor
> dielectric
> up against the fanned out braid.
> Use wire strippers and remove the remaining dielectric from the center
> conductor.
> Install the fully assembled PL259 onto the center conductor and over the 88
> tape.
> The back of the PL259 body should rest on the fanned out shield.
> Solder the center conductor.
> Fan out the shield and cut it to 1/4" long and fold over the back of the
> PL259.
> Solder the shield all the way around to the back of the PL259 body.
> While the back is still hot wrap 2 turns of 88 tape around the soldered shield
> to seal it good.
>
> I use a Weller D550 soldering gun for this process
>
> Now you can enjoy a well soldered shielded PL259! I have NEVER had one fail!
>
> There may be a small impedance bump that you might be able to see at VHF
> caused
> by this method vs. soldering through the holes, but the N4AR method
> guarantees a
> well soldered shield which is much more important to me.
>
> 73!
> Tim K3LR
>
> http://www.k3lr.com
>
> Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
>
> > Rob Atkinson, K5UJ wrote:
> > >You'll probably get 50 responses as everyone has their own way of doing
> > >this.
> >
> > You're so right :-)
> >
> > 1. Someone wrote me with a clever and simple idea: file across the holes
> > using a 1/4-in round file, until the metal has been reduced to a thin
> > edge. This will be much easier to solder, and will also remove any
> > hard-to-solder plating.
> >
> > 2. An electric hot air gun (paint stripper) is probably cheaper than a
> > gas torch, and almost certainly cheaper than a monster iron.
> >
> > 3. Don't try to solder with the torch or hot-air gun. Use it only to
> > boost the temperature of the plug body, until your small iron can melt
> > the solder easily.
> >
> > --
> > 73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
> > http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
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