My experience with Duct Seal is that it has oil in it. A little hard to work
with the tape over it.
73
Jim W7RY
--------------------------------------------------
From: "K1TTT" <K1TTT@ARRL.NET>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 3:45 AM
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding Question
> Weatherproofing is easy and cheap... Go to local hardware store, buy a
> couple of pounds of ductseal and some half decent electrical tape (not the
> real expensive stuff for this). Grab a big handful of the ductseal, mold
> it
> around the joint to be protected, then apply a layer of tape around it to
> protect it from the sun and keep it in place around the joint. Cheap,
> works
> fine, lasts a long time, much easier to remove than coax seal or dipped
> rubber junk or self vulcanizing tape.
>
>
> David Robbins K1TTT
> e-mail: mailto:k1ttt@arrl.net
> web: http://www.k1ttt.net
> AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: K8RI on TT [mailto:k8ri-on-towertalk@tm.net]
>> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 04:36
>> To: towertalk@contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding Question
>>
>>
>> On 3/25/2011 10:42 PM, Gene Smar wrote:
>> > Roger:
>> >
>> > I understand why you might think that weatherproofing
>> a ground clamp on
>> > braided coax like RG-8/u might be tricky. However, it can
>> be done if you
>> > apply the proper materials.
>>
>> I don't disagree with that, but I think the weatherproofing technique
>> may be a bit beyond many.
>> In my case with a 100 foot tower and with grounding normally figured
>> about every 75 feet, I think the top and bottom of the tower is close
>> enough. It's also where the pig tails tie into the coax runs at the
>> top, and into the SOR2 switching at the bottom so the bulk head
>> connectors should be as effective as the ones shown.
>> > I posted some time back in 2001 about applying
>> homemade ground clamps
>> > to my runs of RG-213 at the top and bottom of my tower:
>> >
>> http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-07/m
> sg00698.html
>> . You can see photos of how Joe KC2TN followed my suggestions here:
>> http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2007-10/msg00356.html
>> . The trick to getting a proper seal is to use Scotch 2200 Mastic Pads
>> to
>> cover the clamp and to bridge the cut in the coax shield.
> I use a Scotch mastic tape, but don't have the number handy. I also use
> flooded heat shrink which I prefer with the bulkhead connectors as it
> seals the threads and prevents moisture getting to the connectors.
> Mastic tape would need to cover the entire connector to keep water away
> from the threads. Also the heat shrink is just a whole lot easier.
>
> The connectors shown in the Times Wire tutorial, or instructions are
> quite easy to make, once you figure out now much sheet metal to use. A
> half inch ground rod, piece of tubing, or dowel makes a good mandrel on
> which to form the clamp. Lay the mandrel in the center of the sheet
> metal, bend it around and form it with the "duck bill" vise grips that
> are about 3 or 4" wide. Use a punch to make the holes for the bolts.
> For aluminum a gasket punch will work nicely.
>
> I believe getting the weatherproofing done properly would be the most
> difficult for most hams.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
> <snip>
>
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