On 8/26/2011 11:29 AM, HansLG@aol.com wrote:
>
> The idea is that I can inspect the ground connection. I also didn't want to
> have things interfere with my lawn mower. I kept the wires as close to the
> rod as possible, thereby minimizing the inductance. Right? Time will tell.
>
> I have a good amount of old fencing laying around and decided to add some
> "heavy fill" when I refilled the hole. It is more there to stabilize the
> ground. You may note that the only concrete is the three "pillars" around the
> anchor irons. There is no access for a cement truck and this was my method
> to make a base. Most on the momentum is taken up by the ~4' x 6' granite
> slab on the bottom of the hole.
How tall is the tower? As it's a guyed tower the base serves little
purposed than to keep the tower from sinking or sliding sideways. So the
amount of concrete and steel in the base is not critical.
>
> I used the "falling derrick" to raise the tower. You can see the derrick
> laying on the tower in one of the pictures. One guy wire was attached to the
> derrick. I added some extra wire to the guy and used a couple of
> "come-alongs" to pull the tower up. A motorized winch would have made it
> faster but I
> had the time. The "come-alongs" were attached the wire with "dead-ends"
> the same type as I used to fastened the guys to the anchors.
>
Why did you use 4 point guying and at what levels did you guy the
tower. If the tower is much over 60 feet the mass and type of guy
anchors becomes much more important than the tower base.
> All went very well and I had no major problems during the rection.
With a guyed tower the important points are the guys their anchors and
the proper tension.
73 and good luck,
Roger (K8RI)
>
> Hans - N2JFS
>
> In a message dated 8/25/2011 10:33:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> hk1kxa@hotmail.com writes:
>
> I would have connected the ground wires with the last inches running
> parallel to the ground rod downwards instead of upwards. All curves create
> impedance. Think of your ground conductors route as a road where a high speed
> car needs soft curves and not sharp bends. A minor detail, anyway, you can
> leave it like that.
>
>
> What are those grids you set up horizontally over the concrete? Is it
> copper or steel reinforcement bars? If it is rebars for the concrete, there
> should be a minimum of three inches of concrete between the soil and the iron,
> to protect it from corrosion.
>
>
> Would have been nice to see pics of the structure that routed the pulling
> wire in a high angle to erect the tower.
>
>
> Neat and clean method of installation. Cool.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David
>
> HK1A
> EC5KXA
> AE5XQ
>
>
>
>> From: HansLG@aol.com
>> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 23:56:15 -0400
>> To: towertalk@contesting.com
>> Subject: [TowerTalk] Want comments on tower installation
>>
>> After some (a lot) difficulties my tower is finally in position. It is
> not
>> put up in a "normal" way but rather the way I found practical and
>> applicable. You find the pictures at
>>
> _http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150198503693539.328964.579753538&l=1c649b80ab&type=1_
>>
> (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150198503693539.328964.579753538&l=1c649b80ab&type=1)
> .
>> Locking forward to comments, hopefully not to devastating.
>>
>> Hans - N2JFS
>> _______________________________________________
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>
> =
>
>
>
>
>
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