On 10/19/2013 8:55 PM, EZ Rhino wrote:
Hi Roger,
When I built my base I used the tower itself as the template for the ears. I would
highly recommend doing this or you be sorry when you try to put the two together. Keep
reading. I bolted the ears to the tower and then tack welded the ears to the base with
the tower laying horizontal. I used some 16 gauge sheetmetal (1/16") as spacers so
the ears were slightly apart when the base was taken off the tower. Don't forget to also
do a similar spacer for the third ear! The problem I ran into, and if I did it over I
could remedy this problem, was that when I started welding the ears moved from the heat.
A LOT! Remember we're talking 1/2" steel here (in my case, anyways) and that
requires a hell of a lot of welder to do it properly. To avoid the warpage, I would
cross/diagonally brace the crud out of the ears so they can not move at all. Then cut
off the braces when it is all welded. I welded the ears on with three passes, and the
rest of the gussets with single passes o
n both sides. The final product weighs in about 225 pounds. I think the base
itself can hold up the tower without the concrete, lol.
I've been trying to work this so I can do it alone, but I think I'm going to
have to take your suggested route.
I already have the base ears welded to the #10 rerod so I don't have to worry about the heat
pulling the base dimensions. Getting the ears bolted to the tower base won't be easy with
1/2" X 3" X 25" plates welded to 5' of 1.25" rerod. That's heavy. I'm guessing
they are 60 to 80# each. The tower is on steel sawhorses which put it a bit above waist high. I'll
have to get some neighbors to help. I had been thinking about that as measuring dimensions on one
piece, then shimming up other pieces separately before welding is tricky at best. I was thinking of
using a couple #16 flashing strips for spacing. then welding the diagonals to the rerod and welding
temporary #3 rerod across to hold the spacing while I build the cage. I'd cut those pieces off
just before the pour reached them. With #3 rod I can use bolt cutters, or rather have someone use
them. My left arm and hand are improving, but not that good. I can pull gloves on and hold pieces
while clamping them, but not cut
5/16ths rod yet <:-))
I just need to get a bit of welding done and find someone to mount the
ears/rerod to the base of the tower, then remove the base and haul it
back into the shop after welding the temp spacers.
Thanks and 73
Roger (K8RI)
I finally got my tower up today (hoorah!) and it only required a small amount
of prying with a pointy prybar to align the holes enough to get all 15 bolts
in. This was less prying/hammering/cursing than I've seen on other factory UST
baseplates, so I felt good about the way things fit. (I cut out the holes and
all the baseplate pieces on a buddy's plasma table, so all holes were right on
the money). I used a homebuilt raising fixture made from 4x4 posts and a
Fulton 2500 winch leftover from another tower project.
Chris
KF7P
On Oct 19, 2013, at 18:30 , Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
I'm getting ready to do the final welds on the base. Unfortunatel there are no
specific dimensions given in the paperwork.
The outside distance on the tower "ears" is 23". I'm using the raising fixture to hold the base
"ears" for building the rebar cage. When bolted to the raising fixture the "inside" dimension between
the ears is 23 1/4" That leaves an 1/8th of an inch space between the tower ears and the base ears on each side , or
1/4" total.
I'm assuming I should space the base ears in from the raising fixture with
washers, to give no more than 1/32nd of an inch clearance so when the bolts are
tight the tower and base ears will mate flush and tight.. This should allow
for a snug fit, but not interfere with raising the tower and give face to face
contact for a good holding force when the bolts are tight ( snug plus 1/2 turn)
Comments?
73
Roger (K8RI)
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