Ron, I recommend you install as per Rohn plans/instructions. Lots of
people do lots of different things and many succeed but I think you
would be more comfortable meeting or exceeding the recommendations of
the world class recognized manufacturer. That approach should fly
better with any authorities or regulating agencies than hearsay from
fol;ks who are not recognized authorities. I am not familiar with your
civil situation. You may be required to have a permit or a PE
(Professional Engineer) stamp on your plans to get a permit. Hopefully
you have no restrictions beyond common sense and good engineering
practices to satisfy yourself but the governmental types may have a
say. Better check it out.
It will only cost a few bucks more to go higher strength. The 3000 PSI
is sort of a minimum allowable. (I tend to be conservative and over do
most requirements.) Most standard concrete mixes cure to within 90% of
their final strength in 28 days. It is a curve with over 1/2 of the
final strength in less than half the 28 days. A mix rated at 4000 or
higher and not watered down too much trying to make it easy to work
should be ready in a bit over 3 weeks. There are various additives for
concrete. I recommend you consider a water reducer plasticizer. It must
be added at the site to the mixer truck as it does not have a long pot
life. It will make the mix very runny and easy to work without adding
extra water which reduces the strength of the concrete.
So when you tamp and rod or vibrate the concrete to get the voids filled
and the bubbles out it will go much much better and easier with the
water reducer plasticizer in the mix.
If you dig the hole manually it will be quite a chore, even in soft
earth. Hire a backhoe and operator unless you are experienced with one
which I assume is not the case or you wouldn't be asking how to dig it.
A backhoe and good operator will dig your hole pretty fast unless
digging is hard and or impaired with rock,
I'm sure others will have information to add. Good luck on your project
and don't expect miracles in load and wind handling with 25G unless
stoutly and properly guyed. Guy anchor holes can be augured or done
with a backhoe.
73,
Patrick NJ5G
On 3/24/2014 7:30 AM, Ron Rosson wrote:
Well the weather here in Colorado is finally getting to the point where I need to get of my backside
and start setting plans to get my first tower put up here in Loveland, Co. I have 6 10’
sections and one top section plus 1 8’ section (all 25G). Depending on who I have talked to
in person I have got mixed information on using burring the 8’ section or setting a base
plate for the tower. Which is the better route? Also In my google searches I have found not tied and
true method (free info) for the depth of the whole to dig for the base and how to set the rebar be
it I go with encasing a tower section in cement or with purchasing a base plate for the tower. Below
is what I know that I need to do:
- Cement needs to be 3000 PSI rated
- I want to go bigger on the whole just in case I want to go higher
than what I currently have on hand
- Get with local County to make sure I am ok with how I want to get
this accomplished.
- Once the cement is poured I have a minimum of 30 days of curing
before I can start putting sections together
- If it falls it has to land on my property and not any of my neighbors
:)
What I do not know:
- Best way to accomplish digging of the hole and setting it up for the
tower
- Disturbed or undisturbed
- Rebar pattern
- Dimensions (x by y by z (where z is the depth)
- How to properly setup the anchors for the guy wires
- Can I guy to the same point from different heights if my height requires a guy at
“a" feet and another at “b” feet.
All guidance and pointers is greatly appreciated. If you are local I am open to
a visit for some personal pointers to see the lay of the land (so to speak)
TIA
--
73 de KF5JRA
Ron Rosson
ron@oneinsane.org
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